A good lunch place? Get Stuffed
People frequently ask me, “Where’s a good spot for brunch or lunch on Sunday in St. John’s?” There are about four places that I recommend. Now there’s one more.
I had no idea Get Stuffed was open for lunch (12 p.m.–3 p.m.) on Sundays. We had intended to go somewhere else, but my partner noticed while driving by that it was open. Not having darkened the doorway of Get Stuffed for a few years, we decided to give it a try.
The restaurant hasn’t physically changed in years. Everything looks the same: black and grey table cloths, purple upholstered banquette augmented with cushions of various colours and fabrics, and a few pieces of art. While a change in décor is warranted at this stage, one constant that’s a definite asset is the man in charge of the kitchen, chef and owner, Rob Summers.
Summers and his partner Dana Williams started Get Stuffed seven years ago after Django’s closed. They’ve been relentlessly devoted to the restaurant and that devotion has been rewarded. Get Stuffed is a success, a small family run restaurant with a loyal following. Some of those fans were present when we arrived for Sunday lunch. One chap made it a point to say hello and tell me he dines at Get Stuffed every Sunday.
Hard worker
Rob Summers spends 30 to 35 hours a week on his feet at Get Stuffed’s stove. Unlike some executive chefs these days who spend time cooking for or otherwise taking part in events outside their restaurants — be it in the city, outside the city or even outside the province — you know that when you visit Get Stuffed, chances are very good Summers will be preparing your meal.
I thought it was fitting that just as I was thinking of Summers back there in the kitchen, on his feet yet again, that on the restaurant’s sound system Lana del Ray was singing in her plaintive tone, “Feet don’t fail me now. Take me to the finish line.”
The day was warm and sunny. I was in the mood for something light, alcoholic and effervescent. Our very competent server, Mark, had just opened a bottle of Piper-Heidsieck brut champagne. He made me an aperitif consisting of 1.3 ounces of Chambord (raspberry liqueur) and topped off the flute with the PiperHeidsieck. It was bright red, cool, light, sweet and summery.
Although it’s more of a dish for cold weather, I decided to order the cream-based seafood chowder. Server Mark said it contained surf clams, fresh cod and mussels. Everything, except two mussels on the shell, had broken down into small bits in the chowder, but I could identify the taste of cod and (I thought) shrimp. Shrimp wasn’t advertised as part of the dish so I took it to be a bonus feature. It was creamy and satisfying chowder. Just a bit more intense seafood flavour would have made it even better.
Spectacular
Partner started with grilled calamari that was spectacularly presented.
The body of the squid had been cut into rings but not all the way through. In other words, all of the individual rings still remained attached to one another by a thin strip of meat — like keys on a ring. The calamari was cooked quickly and tossed with a sun-dried tomato vinaigrette. On the plate it was served on arugula with the unattached side of the rings facing skyward. Our server said, “You won’t taste finer in Spain.” I believe you won’t taste finer in St. John’s, unless you’re one who favours battered and fried calamari, where it’s really more about the fat and the batter than the calamari.
Get Stuffed has a daily pasta special. The pasta is handmade and, like anything made from scratch, adds to the experience in my view. The chef had made fettuccine, served with sautéed shrimp, pesto, olive oil, sun dried tomatoes, garlic, shallots and white wine. The pale puff of steam rising from the plate and the aroma were all it took to make me want to immediately start twirling fettuccine around my fork. The dish was everything I wanted it to be.
When properly done, a pulled pork sandwich is manna for meat eaters. A fatty cut of pork slowly barbecued (on very low moist heat) and regularly basted with a sweet and tangy sauce is intoxicatingly good eating. You then pull the meat apart with your hands, pile the ribbons of pork on a bun, add more sauce and serve it with coleslaw.
That pretty much describes the pulled pork sandwich at Get Stuffed. The difference is, they put the coleslaw on the pork. (I like it separate.) It was a very authentic tasting version of the classic Southern U.S. sandwich. A lightly battered, deep fried (fritto misto style) slice of dill pickle was served with the sandwich. It was simply done, but surprisingly delicious.
We ended lunch by sharing a dessert of bananas and chocolate cooked in phyllo, served with vanilla ice cream coated in a crunchy, fine mixture of pecans, hazelnuts and coffee beans. It was high in calories but worth every one. Rating: *** Price: Lunch for two with wine and gratuity — $125 (approximately) Sound level: Moderate
* Fair * * Good *** Excellent **** Exceptional
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