The Telegram (St. John's)

The great survivor

Bianca’s still reigns after withstandi­ng the winds of change

- Karl Wells

Bianca’s 171 Water Street St. John’s Ph. 726-9016

Darwin once said, “It is not the strongest or the most intelligen­t who will survive but those who can best manage change.” He was talking about life forms, but the same can be applied to businesses, be it a newspaper coping with the challenges of new media, or a restaurant riding the roller-coaster of boom, recession, shifting food and dining styles, food costs and customer apathy.

Bianca’s has survived in the St. John’s downtown dining scene for over 20 years. It’s not the same restaurant it was in the beginning. It has subtly changed. The cuisine reveals more thoughtful preparatio­n and presentati­on. Service is as good as ever but is not as overbearin­g. Generally, Bianca’s is now a restaurant that takes the essentials seriously, but does not take itself too seriously.

Over the years, Bianca’s has had talented, skilled chefs. It still does. Chefs Jeff Renouf, and long- time stalwart Kent Tilley, now guide the culinary program at the restaurant. Wine selection is overseen by Bianca and Nick Tsanov. Very few restaurant­s in the city give wine the prominence it is given at Bianca’s.

The main dining room has seen colour and décor changes over the years and I like the current darker tones. Bianca’s lounge looks no different, but one recent developmen­t I’m excited about is the addition of live music on weekends. Steve Edwards (piano) and Steve Randell (bass) are producing a weekend show called Music and Friends. A couple of weeks ago, Carolann Fowler performed incredible covers of Adele and Sarah McLachlan songs and you would have been wowed by Justin Nurse belting out his version of Billy Joel’s “Piano Man.”

 ?? — Photo by Karl Wells/Special to The Telegram ?? Bianca’s grilled halibut with mussels.
— Photo by Karl Wells/Special to The Telegram Bianca’s grilled halibut with mussels.
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