Bravo, Black Sea
Dinner dazzles and delights
Black Sea 193 Water St. St. John’s Phone (709) 754-9028
I managed to say a quick hello to chef Gregory Bersinski before he headed out the door at Black Sea the other night.
It was almost 11 o’clock and he’d been working since four o’clock in the morning. Understandably, he looked tired. Black Sea had done a very early breakfast catering that day. Despite being on the job hours beyond his normal shift, he had prepared a superb dinner for us. So good was this meal that one fact became very obvious to me.
Gregory Bersinski has his mojo back. He’s now securely settled into the groove he occupied during the best years of Bianca’s, before he left that institution to take on the extra weight of restaurant ownership and the vicissitudes it entails. Black Sea and the St. John’s dining public are the beneficiaries of Bersinski’s reclamation.
Someone lamented in my presence the other day the absence of a proper French and proper Italian restaurant in St. John’s. It is indeed lamentable but I am happy that a handful of local restaurants, such as Black Sea, do offer from time to time, or on a regular basis, quintessentially French and Italian dishes.
French influence
Bouillabaisse is a French seafood stew that usually employs a variety of fin and shellfish. The only essential ingredients are good quality saffron and olive oil. After that it’s really up to the cook what he or she chooses to include, although most would go with onions, garlic, tomatoes and parsley.
Black Sea’s tomato based version also included (in addition to Newfoundland mussels and fish) slivers of olive and sliced fresh fennel. The fennel added a hint of licorice that always seems to go well with seafood. Some cooks may also add a tincture of Pernod or similar liqueur. Bersinski’s fish stew was commendable, a delicious arrangement of textures and tastes.
Another seafood appetizer featured seasoned and sautéed scallops paired with various enhancements. One such enhancement was the unlikely combination of puréed cauliflower and vanilla with a hint of Baileys Irish Cream. The gold tinged, succulent scallop found an excellent companion in the cauliflower sauce. Another sauce, puréed sweet red pepper with curry seasoning, also made a fine match.
Quail option
I was thrilled to see that grilled quail (another popular French dish) is regularly offered at Black Sea. Even in 2015 it’s rare to see the lovely pear-shaped bird on local menus. (Chicken and duck, yes, but what about our Canadian farmed quail, partridge, pheasant and squab?) With all due respect to pan-fried cod, skewered jumbo shrimp and striploin, it’s nice to occasionally be given respite from the usual suspects.
Bersinski had marinated the game for several hours before grilling it. Tenderness was insured. Grilling and the inevitable slight charring imparted beautiful smoky flavour to the flesh. The meat was as delicate as the fine bones on which it hung. A serving of ratatouille gave the dish balance. The plate was brightened and heightened by a painting of lemon thyme vinaigrette and jus.
Fresh Atlantic cod was on special. A generous piece of sautéed fillet was served on a bowl of stewed navy beans, honey smoked bacon, cubed carrot, zucchini and small, peeled, whole white baby potatoes. Again, it reminded me of French cookery, the time-honoured cassoulet but with a piece of cod instead of sausage and goose. What beautiful fish — delicate, moist and mild — wonderfully supported by the straightforward, slightly more robust stew.
Dazzling duck
Another entrée, duck confit, was a stunning version of this traditional French dish. In the hands of Gregory Bersinski, a duck leg cooked in duck fat generates a flavour hit that’s hard to match. From crisp brown skin to bone and everything in between, each molecule of duck was given due respect in Bersinski’s preparation. Making the dish even better was perfectly al dente cranberry truffle risotto.
Black Sea’s chocolate mousse cake is why we have high quality chocolate, butter, eggs and flour. Cake and chocolate mousse filling were in pleasing equilibrium. The mousse was rich and ultrasmooth. The cake was moist and light. Together, both parts made heavenly music. I could not have found a better dessert with which to end what was a truly remarkable meal.
Brunch is now being served at Black Sea on the weekend. The menu is reasonably priced with items like eggs Benedict, fish cakes and mixed grill platter ranging from $12 to $14
Karl Wells is an accredited personal chef, author of “Cooking with One Chef One Critic” and recipient of awards from the national body of the Canadian Culinary Federation and the Restaurant Association of Newfoundland and Labrador. Contact him through his website, www.karlwells.com
Follow him on Twitter: @karl_wells