The origin of Zin
Zinfandel is a grape variety which for a long time was thought to be native to California; native in the sense that the beneficial crossing of two other varieties happened in that state, rather than some other locale.
The main wine-making grape species of the world is the vitis vinifera and Zinfandel is a variety within that species, like all the well-known grape names. Vitis is native to Europe and western Asia, so either Zinfandel was imported to California, or a farmer created it in California by crossing two other vitis imports.
California has seemingly been perfect territory for Zin, reinforcing the old assumptions of its origins. The grape favours warm but not too hot conditions. While the hot Central Valley produces much of the material for “white Zin,” the highest quality grapes destined for red wines are sourced from cooler areas.
The thin-skinned Zin is susceptible to bunch rot, so the dry conditions and dry winds found in many parts of the state are quite helpful. The grape has no trouble ripening in California conditions with high sugar levels as well as producing complex red and black berry, pepper and spice flavours.
The grape dominated production in California in the 19th century, but its origins were forgotten and its fortunes dimmed during the Prohibition era and the Great Depression. As the state’s wine industry modernized and grew in the 1960s and 1970s, the very old Zin vines were rediscovered, and became America’s grape.
It wasn’t long before a resemblance was noticed with the Primitivo grape variety common in southern Italy. Then DNA analysis in the ’90s proved that the two grapes were clones of the same variety. In this century, further analysis has confirmed that Primitivo originated in Croatia and is an ancient variety called Tribidrag, although it has several other names in the area. Croatian vines of the variety were rare, a lingering effect The Ravenswood Zinfandel Vintner’s Blend 2013 is a full-bodied wine that goes well with hearty fare.
of the phylloxera devastation which wiped out so many local varieties in Europe.
So Zinfandel is not a unique American variety, but that takes nothing away from the wines. One market force which helped preserve the old vines was the creation of “white Zin” as a blush wine (off-dry, pink wine) just as products such as Casal Mendes were sweeping North America. It’s popularity remains high with close to 10 per cent of U.S. sales. For me though, the real story is in the possibilities of the expressive red wines.
I have enjoyed a 1993 Zin which has been mistaken for quality Burgundian Pinot Noir. There are simplistic fruit bombs in the market, often overwrought with too much alcohol. When the winemaker gets it right, especially with old vines, the result is a richly flavoured, structured, balanced and thoroughly enjoyable creation.
The Ravenswood Zinfandel Vintner’s Blend 2013 (NLC $20.27) has an “old vines” stamp on the label, which always draws me in. The abundant aroma is a melange of spicy dark berry fruit with some cedar and vanilla backdrop. It is drinking smoothly now, despite its relative youth, and proved to be a suitable match with robust dinner flavours. Score: 15/Very Good.