Karl Wells
Exotic flavours, great prices on the menu at St. John’s eatery
“What is a desi meal?” I wondered. According to Wikipedia, desi is “a loose term for the people, cultures and products of the Indian subcontinent or South Asia and their diaspora.”
“What is a desi meal?” I wondered. According to Wikipedia, desi is “a loose term for the people, cultures and products of the Indian subcontinent or South Asia and their diaspora.”
The new Desi Meal Restaurant on Elizabeth Avenue serves Indian and Pakistani food. Hence, desi food, desi meal.
It’s a mom-and-pop kind of spot, a small family-style restaurant selling decent food at very reasonable prices. Although plenty of tables are available for dining in at Desi Meal Restaurant, straight overthe-counter take-out sales are popular. More so, I suspect, than the dine-in trade.
We sat at a window table with a clear, plastic cover over the table cloth to keep it from being stained. One quick wipe with a damp cloth and it was ready. Across from me, written directly on the wall in bold, black lettering was the golden rule. “Do onto [sic] others as you would have done onto [sic] you.”
Ancient maxim
It was the only quotation on display, which made it stand out. I wasn’t expecting to see the ancient maxim on the wall of a restaurant, but why not? Any time we can be reminded to treat others in the manner we’d like to be treated is a good thing.
The weather outside was foggy, wet and cold. I asked for something warm to drink and was offered spiced tea. It wasn’t chai, but similar. The brewed tea was distinctly spiced. I added milk myself. It was good. I like the scent and taste of cardamom. The embracing aroma was a welcome contrast to the unpleasant odour of metal and clay on the strip mall parking lot, where a piece of heavy equipment was being used to dig a hole.
Nothing on Desi Meal Restaurant’s menu exceeds $9.99. That’s refreshing. Meals, or “plates” run the gamut: chicken, beef, fish, veggie and biryani. Each comes with a portion of rice, naan, dal and raita. There’s also a snack and dessert plate for $2.99 each. I cannot comment on dessert. The sugar quotient of the choices — gulab jamun, halwa and baklawa — was a little too high for me that day.
Flat kebab
I chose each of the snacks offered. The “kebab” wasn’t meat on a skewer. It was a flat kebab, a minced beef patty. The thin, round disc, with hints of onion and cumin, was juicy and tender.
Desi Meal Restaurant’s pakora was long on fried spicy batter but short on core ingredient. The thin fritters consisted mostly of toothsome batter.
A light, crispy samosa, filled with corn kernels, completed the trio.
Desi Meal Restaurant’s fish curry boldly released the rich aroma of cumin, coriander, cardamom, garlic etc. I was impressed by the flavour and the richness of the fish, not so by the amount of salt in this recipe. It was far beyond what even I, a devoted salt lover, could handle.
Marination in yogurt, Indian spices and red chili gives tandoori chicken its bright colour and special taste. Grilling then imparts the flavours that only grilling can — varying degrees and shades of smokiness. Desi Meal Restaurant’s tandoori chicken was excellent in every way.
I’m told Desi Meal Restaurant has been doing brisk business since it opened.
Given the quality of the food, and the prices, I’m not surprised. It’s good to have another international restaurant in the city.