Menu thank-yous
This fall I’m making it my business to say thank you to the many special people who helped me out while I was laid up last year with a broken leg. This Saturday it will be the neighbours who kindly carried my garbage to the curb and shoveled my walk and checked now and again to make sure I was still upright.
Since one of the most common questions I get is what to serve at a dinner party, I thought I’d take the opportunity to tell you about this one. Maybe it will inspire you to host someone you’ve been meaning to invite.
Celebration Seafood Chowder
Fish soups and stews are frequent visitors to my table but I save this chowder for special occasions. Yes, it’s expensive and takes a little time but what a showstopper. Flour and butter roux masks the flavour of fish, and I prefer a more soup-like texture, anyway, so I use the potatoes to thicken it slightly. Count on generously serving 8 from this pot. 1/2 lb. shell-on medium-sized raw shrimp 1 medium lobster, cooked in the shell 1/2 lb. scallops, whole if small or halved if large 1/2 lb. fresh or thawed frozen cod fillet, cut into bite-sized chunks 1/4 cup diced salt pork 1 large onion, diced, divided 2 stalks celery, thinly sliced, divided 1 carrot, chopped 1 clove garlic, minced 1 tbsp. tomato paste Celebration Seafood Chowder. 8 cups cold water 1 tsp. each salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 sprigs fresh thyme 2 fresh or 4 dried bay leaves 1 large handful flat-leaf parsley, divided 2 russet baking potatoes, peeled and diced 2 tbsp. olive oil 1 cup dry white wine 1cup whipping cream Shell and devein the shrimp and put them in a large bowl, reserving the shells. Shell the lobster and add the meat, coarsely chopped, to the shrimp. Again, reserve the shell. Remove the small tough muscle from the side of the scallops and add the scallops to the bowl, along with the cod. Render the salt pork in a Dutch oven. When golden brown and crisp remove from the pot and drain on paper towels. Remove and discard all but 2 tbsp. of fat. Fry half the onion and half the celery along with carrot, garlic and tomato paste in the pork fat until mixture starts to colour and thicken. Stir in cold water, salt, pepper, thyme, bay leaves and the stems only from the parsley. Add the reserved shrimp and lobster shells. Bring to a boil, cover, reduce the heat and simmer two hours. Strain through a fine strainer, pressing on the solids to get all the liquid out — 5 to 6 cups. In the same pot, fry the remaining half of the onion and celery along with the potatoes in the olive oil for 5 minutes. Add wine and reserved broth and bring back to a simmer. Cook until the potatoes are tender. Mash a few chunks against the side of the pot — that’s the only thickener. Add the mixed raw seafood and simmer gently 5 minutes. Add cream and cooked lobster and heat through but don’t boil. Stir in the parsley leaves, finely chopped, and adjust the seasoning. Serve in warm bowls with the scruncheons on top.
Rosemary and Garlic Roasted Pork Tenderloin with Port Wine Mushroom Sauce
Nobody doesn’t like a tender slice of perfectly roasted pork. How unfortunate that most people cook it far past that tender spot. Sweet port overpowers this sauce so look for a rating of “2” in the liquor store. Allow a scant half-pound of pork per person. 2 tbsp. minced fresh rosemary leaves 4 cloves garlic, minced 1 tsp. each salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tbsp. olive oil 4 lb. pork tenderloin Sauce: 2 shallots, minced 3 cups fresh mixed mushrooms, thinly sliced 2 tbsp. olive oil 1/2 tsp. each salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 cups tawny port 2 tbsp. cool unsalted butter, cut into small pieces 1 tbsp. best quality balsamic vinegar Combine rosemary, garlic, salt, pepper and olive oil and rub all over the pork. Roast at 300 F about 1-1/2 hours, until the internal temperature reads 140 F. Cover with foil and rest at least half an hour. Prepare the sauce while the roast is cooking. Fry shallots and mushrooms in oil until the mushrooms release their moisture and it evaporates and they brown. Add salt, pepper and port and simmer about half an hour over low heat, until the total volume has reduced to a scant 2 cups. Remove from heat and swirl in the butter, allowing each piece to melt before adding the next. Stir in balsamic vinegar and serve.
Rice and Vermicelli Pilaf
With potatoes in the chowder I don’t want them with the main so I’m serving a rice dish that combines all sides in one. Serve 8 with this recipe. 2 tbsp. vegetable oil 1-1/2 cups vermicelli, broken into 1-inch pieces 2 cups long-grain white rice 4 cups low-sodium chicken broth, heated to nearly boiling 2 cups frozen baby peas, thawed 1/4 cup finely chopped parsley 3/4 cup currants 3/4 cup sliced almonds 1 tbsp. unsalted butter Heat oil in a large heavy pot. Add vermicelli and cook, stirring, until it is the colour of peanut butter. Add rice and continue to cook, still stirring, until it is chalky. Stir in chicken broth — be careful, it’s going to spit. Cover and simmer 15 minutes or until liquid has been absorbed and rice is cooked. Stir in peas and parsley. Fry currants and almonds in butter and sprinkle over the top. I’m not sure about dessert so I’ll have to let you know in another column. Cynthia Stone is an information manager and writer in St. John’s. Email questions to her at cynthia.stone@nf.sympatico.ca.