Holiday sweet bread Part 1
Every year at this time I dig through my old sweet bread recipes to find one worth tarting up, and that always triggers the yearning for warmer days. The first family holiday for many of us is just around the corner, the afternoons are lasting a few minutes longer, and each day the snowbanks around my driveway look a little bit less ferocious.
Today’s offering will last a couple of days on the counter — toasted on day two or three with a skim of butter is wonderful — but a loaf freezes well for several weeks. The dough, before rolling out and adding the filling, freezes perfectly for even longer.
This is a wonderful take-along to a family brunch, and because the dough can proof overnight in the fridge, the timing is perfect to have a freshly baked offering.
Chocolate Bread
There weren’t a lot of external cultural influences for my generation. There was no internet and the only exotic recipes I ever saw were on Kraft TV commercials.
When both media exploded we were suddenly surrounded by food traditions from around the world, and I wanted to try them.
I made my first version of this recipe when I was young but it was disappointing because I didn’t know about the importance of using real butter and good chocolate. The result was something like a candy bar in a sandwich.
Lots learned since then. This wonderfully flavourful loaf is still a cross between soft bread and sweet dessert, but it satisfies both cravings perfectly.
While easy to accomplish if you have a mixer with a dough hook, this recipe does take time and patience.
It will make 2 loaves, each of which yields 10 to 12 slices.
3/4 cup milk, whole or 2% 1/2 cup granulated sugar, divided
1 envelope (2-1/4 tsp.) active dry yeast
3 eggs, 1 of which is divided 2 tsp. vanilla 3-1/4 cups all-purpose flour 1/2 tsp. salt 5 oz. (10 tbsp.) warm unsalted butter Chocolate Filling:
1/4 cup soft unsalted butter
8 oz. best quality dark chocolate, broken into pieces
1/3 cup granulated sugar 1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
1/8 tsp. salt Heat the milk to lukewarm. Stir in 2 tsp. of the sugar until it dissolves then stir in the yeast. Allow to sit for about 10 minutes, until foamy and thick.
Beat 2 eggs plus 1 yolk, (The remaining egg white will be used as glue later.), in a large mixing bowl until frothy. Your dough hook will do this job — no need to break out a second set of beaters. Add the rest of the sugar and continue to mix until dissolved. Add vanilla and milk-yeast mixture.
Add 1 cup of the flour and let the dough hook work on that for 5 minutes. Turn off the machine and let the dough relax for 10 minutes. Whisk the remaining flour with the salt and add it about 1/2 cup at a time, allowing each addition to be fully incorporated into the dough before adding the next. When it’s all in let the machine do its magic for 5 more minutes.
Now start beating in the butter a knob at a time. You want about 6 additions. Allow each to become part of the dough before adding the next and at the end beat 5 minutes for a final knead. At first the dough will look split and ugly, then it becomes smooth and elastic. Cover the mixing bowl tightly with plastic wrap. The flavour is better if you can refrigerate overnight but if you want to bake it on the same day allow it to sit on the counter until it is doubled in volume — you want a cold proof on this one so don’t put it in a warm oven. It could take up to 2 hours so just wait. The dough is soft and a bit sticky so scrape it out of the bowl onto a lightly floured surface. Gently push it into a rectangle about 12 by 16 inches. You want the long edge close to you. If it is not cooperating let it rest for 10 minutes then continue. A rolling pin works well but your fingers will do the job. Whisk together that leftover egg white with 2 tsp. of cold water and using your finger or a pastry brush coat the edges of the rectangle all around in a 1/2-inch border.
To start filling the dough, rub the soft butter evenly and gently over the rectangle, staying away from the egged edge.
Combine chocolate, sugar, cocoa and salt in a food processor and pulse until it is finely ground. You can do it with a sharp knife but it takes longer. The result should look like coffee grounds. Sprinkle it evenly on top of the butter layer, maintaining that clean border.
Starting at the long edge farthest from you, start rolling towards you as you would cinnamon rolls, although the dough is much thinner and more delicate. You won’t get a really tight roll but by the time you’re halfway it will get easier. To finish it, grab that egged edge and pinch it against the roll to seal tightly. Now bring the two ends together and pinch them shut to make a circle of rolled dough. Twist the dough around itself to form a figure-8. Line a loaf pan with parchment paper and grease well. Nestle the dough into the pan. Cover with plastic wrap that has been oiled to prevent it from sticking to the dough and allow to rise until about doubled. Again, overnight in the fridge or on the counter for a couple of hours will work. If you refrigerate be sure to bring the loaf back to room temperature before baking.
Bake at 375 F for 40 minutes or until the top is dark golden brown and when you tap the bottom it sounds hollow. I use a meat thermometer because it’s so hard to know when it is cooked. The perfect temperature is between 195 and 200 F. If you decide to go with temping make sure you test several places in the loaf. If you hit an air pocket it will register low.
When it comes out of the oven you can rub it lightly with butter to shine up the crust. You cannot cut this bread while it is warm — the delicate layers and scrolls will fall apart. Be patient.
And now a big apology to all you eagle-eyed readers who picked up the fact that in my last column I left out the oven temperature for the Molasses Date-nut Baked Pudding. Several people told me they assumed 350 F and they were right. I have no excuse … I screwed it up. (And so did I: The editor) Cynthia Stone is an information manager and writer in St. John’s. Email questions to her at cynthia.stone@nf.sympatico.ca.