A final word …
And, 12 of my favourites
The closing weeks of spring and advent of summer have always been, for me, a time for taking stock. It’s when I assess what I’ve been doing with my life and what changes, if any, I want or need to make going forward.
I started this column in 2004 and I’ve been here, without fail, every week of every month since then. Meeting deadlines is something I’ve been doing since I was a teenaged volunteer DJ at a radio station, followed by over 30 years in live broadcasting at the CBC. And, for the last 14 years, I’ve been meeting The Telegram’s weekly deadline.
A weekly deadline is not as onerous as daily ones but, after many years, the weekly deadline seems to come much more quickly. Pressure builds. When it starts to feel like a grind that’s a problem. You may be thinking, “How hard can it be? You go out for a meal; you scribble a few lines about whether it was good or bad.”
If I were posting a few comments on Yelp, maybe you’d have a point.
Writing a review for The Telegram means applying the same standards as for any other piece in the newspaper. It requires an investment in time, research, thinking, fact checking, careful, hopefully stylish writing and getting the piece delivered on deadline, in time for publication. These past several weeks, I’ve been staring that deadline down and asking myself, “Is it time to stop?” Initially, I brushed off the thought.
Then I realized, having delivered over 700 columns, that yes, it is time to stop.
When I began reviewing there weren’t many restaurants to write about. Friends and colleagues predicted that my reviewing career would be short, maybe six months, certainly less than a year. They were wrong. Somehow, I managed to find something to write about every week and, over time, more and more excellent, locally owned restaurants opened. I admit I made mistakes — which I did my best to correct – but I always sought to be fair.
Critics
Recently someone said to me, “I’m a food critic,” meaning, we’re all food critics. Yes, we are. Everybody eats. More and more of us are expressing our opinions about restaurants on Google, Trip Advisor, Facebook, Foursquare, Twitter, Instagram, Zomato and so on. Sometimes it’s one line, such as, “I’ll never go back there again!!” or “Simply great!” Often, it’s one paragraph about whether the service was fast or slow and which dish or dishes the writer liked or didn’t like. In some cases, it’s personal, it’s somebody with a grudge out to damage a restaurant’s reputation; or, it could be restaurant cheerleading by friends of the restaurateur. In other words, boosterism, not criticism.
I tried to offer readers something more useful, more detailed and objective. My readers, paying customers like me, have always been my priority — as they are for all serious restaurant critics. I wanted to deliver good information about a restaurant’s food – the quality of the ingredients, the background or inspiration of a dish and how it was cooked — what the chef was trying to accomplish, the quality of the restaurant’s service and atmosphere, to put things in context.
In short, I was trying to help you make an informed decision about whether a certain restaurant was where you wanted to spend your hard-earned money, not to steer you toward or away from a restaurant. The truth is, dining out is a luxury for most of us and not something we can afford to do every week. It can be expensive. Finding a place that suits our own tastes and requirements, whatever they may be, is important.
With that in mind, and since this is my final Dining Out column, I’d like to answer a question I’ve been asked dozens of times since I began reviewing. “What’s your favourite restaurant?”
The honest answer is that I have many favourite restaurants — too many to list here. Where I go depends on what I’m looking for on the day.
I might be in the mood for Indian food, a restaurant with great sushi, superior pasta, someplace quiet, or with a certain type of atmosphere.
One thing all my favourites have in common is consistency.
Here, in alphabetical order, are 12 of my favourite restaurants and why.
Basho
Tak Ishiwata is a brilliant chef who is unsurpassed, locally, in his sushi-making skills. You won’t find better sushi in Newfoundland. The white fish entrée is always delectable and Basho’s cocktails, distinctive and well-prepared. I enjoy the casual elegance of the restaurant’s main floor dining room and the friendly ambiance of the upstairs bar. Service is first rate.
Blue on Water
It was a pleasure watching Blue on Water evolve into the restaurant it is today. Chef Adam Grevatt has an affinity for classic cuisine, be it an Italian soup or a French tartelette. Your palate will verify the freshness and superb execution of Blue’s dishes. Grevatt is a chef who cooks for the day, preparing meals from scratch.
Boca Tapas Bar
It’s relatively new but Boca Tapas Bar arrived with plenty of experience behind it. When chef Gregory Bersinski is given the freedom to cook what he likes, how he likes, the result is always delicious. Boca supplies an attractive, comfortable space in which to enjoy a variety of excellent Spanish wines and tapas — with genuine Spanish ingredients like white anchovies and pata negra.
Fifth Ticket
I know of no other lottery winner, besides David Primmer, who chose to spend a good part of their winnings on creating a restaurant. We should be glad he did. To be fair, Fifth Ticket is more than a restaurant. It’s an entertainment venue. On certain nights live music is also part of the mix. Delicious food is constant. It’s the foundation on which Fifth Ticket’s reputation is based.
Gypsy Tea Room
Emir Mahic’s restaurant has been a favourite since before he moved it to the Murray Premises. Gypsy has a charming atmosphere, blending a 20th Century European aesthetic with modern taste. A wellstocked wine cellar supports cuisine that always satisfies. Gypsy’s seafood is especially appetizing, particularly fresh fin fish.
India Gate
It’s our preeminent international restaurant and the reason is obvious. India Gate’s subcontinental cuisine, from curries to kulfi, is exceptional. Although the Gate does a booming take-away trade, many customers prefer to dine in. India Gate is one of the few St. John’s restaurants that offers what we used to call “fine dining,” with white table cloths, formal place settings and very attentive service.
Mallard Cottage
In the hands of anyone other than Todd Perrin, Mallard Cottage could very easily have turned into a seasonal tourist trap serving mediocre food. Tourist magnet it may be, but Mallard Cottage is the opposite of mediocre. It’s Todd Perrin’s delicious take on rustic cuisine, served in a traditional space unfettered by cliché.
Merchant Tavern
Merchant Tavern is the antithesis of the building’s staid original tenant, the Bank of Nova Scotia. It’s noisy and energetic. The openness of the bar-restaurant’s modern surroundings encourages patrons to be open and enjoy themselves. Good food and drink also help. Merchant’s chefs and mixologists are among the best in the city. I recommend dinner because the evening menu has more choice.
Oliver’s
Nostalgia may play a part in why I like Oliver’s so much. I was going there before I started writing about restaurants, when restaurant dining wasn’t a work assignment. I picked Oliver’s. It didn’t pick me. It’s private, comfortable, the food tastes great, and I can get a decent glass of red wine there. It’s not a cheap restaurant but neither is it outrageously expensive.
Raymonds
Raymonds is the best restaurant in Newfoundland history. Chef Jeremy Charles and sommelier, Jeremy Bonia, have created a restaurant that often provides diners with a genuine “gastronomic” experience. Seafood, vegetables, pasta, meat and game are of the finest quality and everything is impeccably prepared. Raymonds wine list is extraordinary.
Seto
This small restaurant produces some of the most creative dishes in St. John’s. Maybe Seto’s size and tiny kitchen spark some of the creativity but mainly it comes from the talented mind of chef, Ken Pittman. Currently he describes his cuisine as “Newfoundland with Asian flavours.” Truth is, Pittman is the equivalent of multilingual when it comes to communicating through cooking. He can converse, so to speak, through many cuisines and styles of preparation.
Tavola
Tavola’s owner, Bob Hallett, knows quality when he sees it, quality in many things. This valuable attribute has guided him in the creation and management of Tavola. His cozy, unpretentious restaurant prepares delicious contemporary food, delivered by friendly, knowledgeable servers. Nothing gets past Hallett without his seal of approval. You’ll leave Tavola with a smile.
Finally, let me assure you, I intend to keep dining out. Look for the odd tweet about something I like. Restaurants have always been and will continue to be an important part of my life. I’ll continue to write – sometimes – about whatever interests me. You may run across my articles here or in other publications. The Telegram’s annual business magazine, Horizons, for example, just published an extensive profile I wrote about a Newfoundland businessperson. I think you’ll find it interesting.
My thanks to The Telegram and the Saltwire Network for giving me the opportunity to write about restaurants in a weekly column. I’d like to thank my editors over the years. You were great supporters and I valued your advice and encouragement.
Finally, heartfelt thanks to you readers, especially those of you who reached out to tell me how much you looked forward to reading my weekly reviews. I hope you understand and appreciate my decision to end the column. Hearing your constructive feedback was always very important to me. I trust I was able to provide you with good information over the past 14 years, and perhaps a little entertainment along the way.
And so, dear Dining Out readers, I bid you a fond goodbye.
Karl Wells is an accredited personal chef, author of “Cooking with One Chef One Critic” and recipient of awards from the national body of the Canadian Culinary Federation and the Restaurant Association of Newfoundland and Labrador. Contact him through his website: www.karlwells.com Follow him on Twitter: @karl_wells