Bring the flavours of Colombia to your table
Along with arepas and the one-pot meal, “empanadas are a unifying factor of Colombian cuisine,” says Mariana Velásquez, Bogotáborn, New York-based recipe developer and food stylist.
Velásquez is the author of the cookbook Colombiana: A Rediscovery of Recipes and Rituals from the Soul of Colombia.
Colombian food is intensely regional, she adds; there are vast differences from place to place. Pretty much anywhere you go in the South American country, you’ll find empanadas made with different fillings, doughs and cooking methods (though they’re mostly deep-fried).
“You could have an empanada tour around the country and really have a great experience,” says Velásquez.
Near the Venezuelan border, you might find empanadas stuffed with pipián (pumpkin seeds and peanuts); in the Andes Mountains, potatoes and egg; and in the Sierra Nevada foothills, braised rabbit and vegetables.
At home in Brooklyn, Velásquez often makes large batches of empanadas and stores them in the freezer, ready to pop in the oven, air fryer or caldera (i.e. cauldron; a Dutch oven makes a good substitute for deep-frying).
“It’s the thing I love doing on a cold winter afternoon, where we can just stay home and roll dough, and just make it a fun project. And then you know, I’m a big believer in the freezer,” she says, laughing. “I think the freezer is a great solution.”
In Colombiana, Velásquez includes an “Empanada Saturnalia” feast, complete with two categories of fillings and doughs: savoury (roasted chicken and coriander, recipe follows, and ground beef and Yukon Gold potatoes); and sweet (dulce de piña — candied pineapple with whipped goat cheese).
Making empanadas is a simple process, she says, but it’s more fun to do with others — around a table, glass of rosé, or shot of aguardiente (an anise-scented Colombian liqueur made from sugar cane) or mezcal in hand.
“There’s that sense of community when you get to make it together, and everybody can help and feel like they’re a part of it.
EMPANADAS
Dough for savoury fillings:
1 1/2 cups (12 oz/340 g) all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
1/2 cup (4 oz/113 g) fine corn flour
1 tsp kosher salt
6 tbsp (3 oz/85 g) unsalted butter, melted
7 oz (198 g) plain unsweetened Greek yogurt
2 to 3 tbsp warm water or milk (or more depending on atmospheric humidity)
SAVOURY FILLING:
One batch Roasted Chicken & Coriander Empanada Filling (recipe follows dough instructions)
Step 1
In a large bowl, whisk together the all-purpose flour, corn flour and salt. Add the melted butter and incorporate with a fork. Add the yogurt and mix again. At this point you will have flour that has not been incorporated into the wet ingredients. Add the water, one tablespoon at a time, and, using your hands, incorporate the water until a smooth ball forms.
Step 2
Divide the dough into two pieces. Reserve one piece in a bowl covered with a damp, clean kitchen towel so it doesn’t dry out. Line two or three baking sheets with parchment paper, depending on the size of empanadas you choose to make.
Step 3
With one piece at a time, on a floured surface, roll out the dough with a rolling pin, pressing from the centre out until it reaches a 1/8- to 1/4-inch thickness. Using a round cookie cutter, three- or fourinch diametre, press down on the dough, making sure the cutter goes all the way through. Make sure to cut the discs very close to one another to make the best use of the dough.
Step 4
Place the discs on the prepared baking sheet and cover with the damp kitchen towel you used to cover the dough.
Step 5
Form a ball with the leftover pieces of dough and roll out again. Repeat the same steps for cutting out the dough.
Note: The second time you roll out the dough, you will notice that it is rubbery and a little harder to work with. (Also, when you cut it out, you will notice the discs will spring back a bit and will be a bit smaller than in the first round.) You should have 30 to 32 discs if you used a threeinch cutter, or 16 discs if you used a four-inch cutter.
Step 6
Fill the empanadas with a savoury filling. Use one- to one-and-a-half teaspoons of filling for three-inch round empanadas and one- to oneand-a-half tablespoons for fourinch empanadas. Make sure that you don’t underfill (the empanada will be too doughy) or overfill (the filling will leak out).
Step 7
To seal the empanadas, fold the dough over the filling (you will now have a half-moon shape) and seal the edges by pressing the dough with your fingers. If you’re having a hard time sealing the edges, you can brush the inside edges with egg (one egg, beaten) — it will act as a glue for the empanadas. You can also use a fork to help seal the edges; just press the tines against the edges.
Step 8
If cooking right away, transfer the empanadas to the freezer for at least 30 minutes. The empanadas can be stored in the freezer for up to three months wrapped in plastic, and don’t need thawing before baking or frying. Simply add 10 to 12 minutes to the cooking time.
Step 9
At this point, you can either bake or fry your empanadas.
For baking: Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C) for smaller empanadas and 400°F (200°C) for larger ones.
If you want your empanadas to have a nice golden finish, brush them with an egg wash (one egg whisked with a few drops of water). Bake until golden, 18 to 25 minutes.
FOR FRYING:
Heat four cups (1 L) canola oil to 350°F (180°C) in the heavy-bottomed pot of a caldero (cauldron; a 5.2 litre Dutch oven makes a good substitute), using a deep-fry thermometer. Line a large platter with paper towels and set aside. The oil should bubble when you add the empanadas. Fry in small batches until they are golden brown on each side. Don’t overcrowd the pot, and if any of the empanadas break and leak, immediately remove them from the oil.
Place the fried empanadas on the prepared platter to drain any excess oil.
Makes: 30 to 32 empanadas (threeinch diametre, cocktail size) or 16 empanadas (four-inch diametre, snack size)
ROASTED CHICKEN & CORIANDER EMPANADA FILLING 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped
1 medium red bell pepper, seeded, deveined and finely chopped
1/4 tsp kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 tsp coriander seeds, toasted and ground
1 tsp ground cumin
1/2 tsp ground turmeric
1 3/4 cups finely chopped roasted chicken, white and dark meat
5 tbsp sour cream
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro leaves and stems
Step 1
In a medium skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Cook the onion and pepper until lightly browned, three to five minutes. Add the salt, pepper to taste, the coriander, cumin and turmeric, and stir well with a wooden spoon. Cook for one minute.
Step 2
Lower the heat to medium-low and add the chicken to the skillet. Stir well, making sure you scrape all bits and pieces stuck to the skillet. Transfer the chicken mixture to a medium bowl and let cool.
Step 3
Add the sour cream and cilantro to the cooled chicken and mix well with a fork. The filling should be moist but not too wet, for perfect empanadas. Set aside until you are ready to stuff your empanadas. Makes: 1 1/2 cups (24 tablespoons)
“You could have an empanada tour around the country and really have a great experience.”
Mariana Velásquez Author