Spring’s vegetable
How to choose and use asparagus
Asparagus, for a couple decades or more, was heralded by chefs and foodies as a sort of aristocrat of vegetables.
We even perhaps discarded our common sense by forgetting the concepts of seasonality and locally sourced produce when it came to this vegetable, placing it on a plate with just about any protein at any time of year.
Let’s discard the old mentality of placing asparagus on a plate just for the sake of it and return to loving it as a seasonal, locally grown delicacy, best enjoyed here in Atlantic Canada in late spring and early summer when it is fresh and local.
When shopping for asparagus, there are several things to consider, including size. Mid-sized asparagus is best, so choose tender, moderately sized asparagus over thin flimsy asparagus or overly thick, fibrous asparagus.
Colour is also important — you’ll want your asparagus to be a nice, bright green. Fresh asparagus might even have a purple tinge in the tips. Also look for asparagus that’s firm. If it’s flimsy, it’s not fresh. Each asparagus’ tips should be tight and not too dried out.
When you’ve bought your asparagus and are preparing it at home, remove the ends by snapping them off. The asparagus should naturally break where the wood end finishes. But don’t throw out the ends — use them to make a flavourful vegetable stock.
LEMONY ASPARAGUS SOUP
Serves 4
• 4 cups vegetable or chicken stock
• 2 lbs asparagus, chopped with tough, trimmed, hard ends removed
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Directions: Place stock in a pot and let simmer with the asparagus trimmings. Place another pot over medium-low heat. Add the butter and onions. Sauté until onions are soft and translucent. Add garlic and lemon zest. Sauté for another 45 seconds. Add the asparagus, raise heat to medium and sauté for
3 to 4 minutes. Add the white wine. When the wine has mostly evaporated, strain and add the stock. Simmer until asparagus is tender (8 to 10 minutes), but don’t overcook. Remove from heat and let cool. Add to a blender, puréeing until smooth. Add lemon juice, sour cream and season with salt and pepper. Whisk to combine.
ROASTED ASPARAGUS
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1 medium onion, peeled and diced 2 tbsp butter
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 lemon zest, juice
¼ cup white wine
3 to 4 fluid ounces sour cream 4 side dish servings
1 bunch asparagus, trimmed, hard ends removed
2 tbsp olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 lemon zest, juice
1/4 cup Parmesan, shaved
Directions: Toss asparagus with olive oil and garlic. Season with salt and pepper. Place asparagus on a baking sheet. Roast in an oven preheated to 425 F for 10 minutes. Remove, sprinkle with lemon zest and lemon juice. Transfer to a platter and top with Parmesan.
Mark DeWolf is currently the creative director of food and drink at the SaltWire Network, director of marketing and communications of the Association de la Sommellerie Internationale (ASI) and past-president of the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers (CAPS). He enjoys drinking, eating, writing and talking about wine, beer and food.