Time to get cracking on devilled eggs
Why Atlantic Canadians are searching for this traditional snack
A classic hors d’oeuvre with few variations, but many fond memories, devilled eggs are making a reappearance at brunch buffets and as an offering at special occasions.
According to Google Trends, searches for the retro recipe were on the rise in 2021, particularly by Newfoundlanders and Nova Scotians. A throwback recipe with mixed reviews, for some people, there’s no mystery behind the appeal while others are intrigued.
Marsha Tulk of Middle Cove, N.L., is a photographer, recipe curator and developer. You can find some of her recent work in the book “Food, Culture, Place: Stories, Traditions, and Recipes of Newfoundland” (https:// www.foodcultureplace.ca/). Despite her knowledge of classic cuisine, she is admittedly surprised devilled eggs are reappearing in our culinary repertoire.
“The only times I have ever encountered devilled eggs would be at the following three occasions: births, deaths or potlucks. Hence, I haven’t seen a devilled egg in a long time,” she muses.
To understand devilled eggs of the present, we must look to our (recent) culinary past. Tulk retrieved her collection of parishioner’s published cookbooks.
“I settled on the wisdom of the First United Church Women of Corner Brook 9th Edition (1990) to give me inspiration,” she says.
“In the index, I stumbled upon a section called ‘Party Snacks’ under ‘Miscellaneous.’ To my surprise, no devilled eggs … The only section I could find anything remotely close to a devilled egg was in the salad section” which is perhaps indicative of the simplicity of the preparation of devilled eggs: no recipe is required.
APPETIZER AESTHETICS
Evelyn Hornbeck of Halifax, N.S., noted devilled eggs have a wacky representation in popular culture and their retro appeal invites comedic applications.
“I think, as a kid, eggs were always kind of funny because of how they could sometimes smell,” she says.
Hornbeck maintains devilled eggs demand a seat at the party.
“They’re made with things many would have on hand, they’re kinda fancy and kinda easy, and they taste delicious. I do think nostalgia is playing a role here.”
Kim O’Connor of Kentville, N.S. agrees nostalgia is at the root of the resurgence of this vintage dish, particularly due to the recent state of
unrest and uncertainty.
“It could be that people are looking for things that remind them of a time/experience that felt positive and secure. Our world has been turned upside down these last couple of years and people
have been looking for things to help feel reassured.”
Tulk reminds us about common shared experiences.
“Births … it is usual for family troops to rally together and support the new member-to-be with food, gifts and awkward party games. As you prepare for that gathering you do consider making a batch of devilled eggs. Most times you start and after the third egg that doesn’t cleanly peel, you wind up making a big batch of egg sandwiches instead.” At then there are deaths. Many can recall post-funeral services at community or church halls where, Tulk jokes, people line up “like you are back at summer camp with your plate in hand to gather up a grand selection of sandwiches, cookies and squares. By the time I find the church hall, all of the eggs are gone.”
PLAIN AND FANCY
For some, devilled eggs are an obvious choice. Content
creator, Kayla Short of Halifax, N.S., (https://www.instagram.com/shortpresents/) says devilled eggs are just “creamy, yummy goodness.”
She adds they are packed with “rich fats and protein. They make an excellent snack because they keep you fuelled.”
A GOOD EGG
The variations in preparation seem to come from the toppings, which add the needed texture or spice to the dish. The common variable is a creamy consistency to the yolk.
“I look at what is in my fridge and what would be mixed in or added on top," she says, adding that something like gochugaru, mixed in with sesame seeds on top is very good or bacon bits.