Exploring Francis Mallmann’s book Green Fire
Francis Mallmann first came to my attention a little more than a decade ago. On a trip to Mendoza, I along with my intrepid travelling companions ventured to his 1884 Restaurant in the heart of this city, an oasis of light and refined dining, in the heart of this small but bustling city. Mallmann, by this point, had already carved out his fame in South America thanks to a reputation earned cooking meat over open flames. The rugged chef, once described by Esquire Magazine “as the most interesting chef in the world,” like many of us, has switched his attention back to the earth, focusing his cuisine more and more on what grows below the ground than what grazes above it. Mallmann, like myself, hasn’t forsaken meat, but with the release of his latest book, The Green Fire (Penguin Random House), he demonstrates his skills and talents for cooking over fire extends to vegetables.
Mallmann says, “I have always served vegetables, but it’s also fair to say they have frequently been more of a sideshow than a main attraction ... my goal is to create meals for vegetarians and vegans that are as sumptuous and satisfying as a succulent T-bone steak or plump brook trout plucked from a mountain stream.”
While Mallmann is famous for cooking over open pits of fire, in the book he suggests it’s possible to do a good job using a classic kettle grill.
WORDS OF WISDOM FROM MALLMANN
“You can’t control the heat of a wood fire, but honestly, the ingredients won’t know the difference if the heat of your
fire is a few degrees above or below (your desired temperature).”
To get a sense of the heat of your fire: “Hold your hand about 4 inches above the cooking surface and count ... 2 seconds: high heat, 3 to 4 seconds: medium-high heat, 5 to 6 seconds: medium heat, 7 to 8 seconds: medium-low heat, 8 to 12 seconds: very low heat.”
When cooking with wood: “Be sure to use hardwoods such as oak, maple, cherry, apple or hickory. They don’t burn down to ashes as quickly as softer woods.”
If not practical to cook over open fire, use charcoal. “Part of the romance of cooking with fire is the jumbled-up appearance of embers and coals. But if charcoal briquets are all that you can find, they will work, too.”
To build your fire: “Scout the area for kindling — especially dry grass and twigs ... once the flames build, I add twigs and branches.”
SCORCHED BRUSSELS SPROUT LEAVES WITH WALNUTS
4 Servings
• 1 lb Brussels sprouts
• Extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 lemons: 1 juiced, 1 cut into wedges for serving
• 2/3 cup walnut halves
• Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
Directions: Prepare a fire for medium heat and warm the plancha. If cooking indoors, heat one or more cast-iron griddles over medium heat. With a sharp paring knife, slice off the stem ends of the Brussels sprouts, then pull off the leaves and drop them into a bowl. As the leaves get tighter, cut around the stem to release more leaves, slicing off more of the stem as you go. When you get to the core, discard it. Brush the hot plancha or griddle with olive oil. When the oil shimmers, add the Brussels sprout leaves (in batches, if necessary). Cook until the leaves are softened and lightly charred in patches, about three minutes. As the leaves are done, transfer them to a wide serving bowl and dress with the lemon juice. Wipe the surface of the plancha or griddle with an oiled paper towel and scatter the nuts over it. Toast the nuts for about one minute, being careful not to burn them. Transfer to a cutting board and chop them very roughly, then add them to the bowl with the Brussels sprouts. Toss them together, season to taste with salt and pepper and drizzle with olive oil. Serve with the lemon wedges on the side.
ROASTED STRAWBERRIES WITH RICOTTA
AND MINT
6 Servings
• 2 pints ripe strawberries
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 4 tbsp cold unsalted butter, cut into 6 pieces
• 1 1/2 cups chilled ricotta cheese
• A handful of fresh mint leaves
Directions: Prepare a fire for medium-low heat and set a grate over it. Hull the berries and place in a bowl. If they are large, cut them in half lengthwise. Add the sugar and gently toss the berries to thoroughly coat. Pour the berries into a 9- or 10-inch cast-iron skillet and dot with the butter. Set the pan on the grate (or on the stovetop over medium heat) and cook until the sugar melts and the berries begin to caramelize, three to four minutes. Stir occasionally as the butter melts into the caramelized sugar and berries and forms a sauce. Remove the pan from the heat and strain the sauce into a bowl, leaving the berries in the warm skillet. Return the pan to the heat to brown the berries for a minute or so. Spoon the ricotta onto a serving dish and top with the roasted berries. Shower with the mint and serve the warm sauce on the side.
Mark DeWolf is currently the creative director of food and drink at the SaltWire Network, director of marketing and communications of the Association de la Sommellerie Internationale (ASI) and past-president of the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers (CAPS). He enjoys drinking, eating, writing and talking about wine, beer and food.