The Valley Wire

Taking beef and wine pairing to new heights

- MARK DEWOLF mark.dewolf@saltwire.com @drink_east

April is Malbec season. On April 17, wine lovers around the world reach for a glass of Malbec in celebratio­n of Malbec Day, created in honour of this delicious Argentinea­n export. I encourage you do so with some food. The classic pairing for Argentinea­n Malbec is steak. Argentina is known for its cattle-herding gauchos and is rightfully proud of the quality of its beef.

While Malbec and beef are a classic match, Argentinea­n wine can no longer be identified as a singular style. Even within the Malbec category, winemakers are constantly seeking new terroirs to explore new styles. One of the easiest ways to identify style is by price point. While this is a generaliza­tion, Argentinea­n Malbec retailing under the $20 threshold, especially those labeled as Mendoza (the country’s largest wine producing region) tend to be made in a juicy, fruit-forward style. While robust and fruit-filled, these wines tend to have round, soft tannins, making them deliciousl­y easy to drink, and they are a good pairing for casual fare such as burgers.

Increasing­ly, winemakers in up-andcoming regions such as Pedernal Valley (San Juan), further north in Cafayate and Salta, and in higher elevation areas of Mendoza such as the Uco Valley are producing more premium, age-worthy Malbecs. As you go higher, soils often become harder and less forgiving, and in combinatio­n with warm days and cold nights produce full-bodied wines that tend to be more red fruit and floral driven and dryer in style. Expect to pay north of $20 for these wines. Try them with my grilled tenderloin and mushroom recipe.

Finally, Argentina does produce some super premium versions of Malbec. The best combines the plum-like character of the grape, with mineral-edged and herbaceous notes and a palate with some fresher acidity and fine tannins. The perfect accompanim­ent to a lean but firm cut of beef such as flank steak. My favourite is Versado, produced by Canadian winemaking superstars Peter Gamble and Ann Sperling.

Blue Cheeseburg­ers 4 Servings

1 lb medium ground beef Salt and pepper

1 tbsp vegetable oil

4 tbsp blue cheese, crumbled Caramelize­d onions

Sauteed Mushrooms

Directions: Form beef into four equally sized balls. Place a large cast iron pan over mediumhigh heat. Add oil. Add two of the meatballs to the pan and flatten to half-inch thickness with a spatula. Season with salt and pepper. Cook until edges are bit crispy (one and a half to two minutes). Flip. Add blue cheese. Cook until browned (about one to one and a half minutes). If blue cheese hasn’t melted, add a splash of water to pan, and cover, and cook for 30 more seconds. Repeat with remaining two burgers. Serve on

toasted buns and top with caramelize­d onions and sauteed mushrooms.

Grilled Tenderloin with Mushrooms

4 Servings

4 x 4-oz tenderloin steaks, trimmed Sea salt and roughly cracked pepper 1 tbsp olive oil

3 tbsp butter

2 cloves garlic

2 sprigs rosemary

2 shallots, minced

1 tsp peppercorn

1 cup red wine, such as Malbec

8 oz cremini mushrooms, halved

Directions: Remove tenderloin from refrigerat­or about 20 minutes before it is time to cook. Season steaks generously with salt and pepper. Place a large grill pan (or cast-iron pan) over medium-high heat. Add olive oil. Grill for two minutes, or until well seared on one side, and flip. Add the butter, garlic and rosemary. Sear steaks for two more minutes, basting at all times. Sear the outside of the steaks. Remove steaks and set aside to rest. Lower heat to medium-low and add shallots, peppercorn and red wine. Cook until the wine is more than half evaporated and shallots softened (six to eight minutes). Use a wooden spoon to scrape the bottom of the pan as the red wine reduces. Add the mushrooms and continue to cook for about eight to 10 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Strain sauce. Pick out mushrooms. Serve steaks topped with mushrooms and accompanie­d by red wine sauce.

 ?? ?? Sommelier Mark DeWolf recommends pairing entry level Malbec with burgers, especially those topped with blue cheese, which has a natural affinity with Malbec.
Sommelier Mark DeWolf recommends pairing entry level Malbec with burgers, especially those topped with blue cheese, which has a natural affinity with Malbec.
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