Ri Ri Noodles

The Place: The Sovereign Room 220 Red River Road 343-9277 The Price: $18

The Basics: Shaved pork, housemade egg noodles, braised leeks, chili oil, Sichuan peppercorns, fried carrots, stock

The Lowdown: There’s something reassuring about listening to Bob Dylan while enjoying The Sov’s spin on the classic spicy Sichuan street food, Dan Dan Noodles. The layered, complex flavours of the dish are accomplished in five parts: chili oil with black garlic, duck fat, and black vinegar; a marinated zesty shaved pork mixture; freshly boiled housemade egg noodles; braised leeks with Sichuan peppercorns; and a rich stock. Topped with crispy shreds of fried carrots, the bowl’s ultra-umaminess more than satisfies pandemic longings. Small details are reminders of the beauty of at-table service. “But don't think twice, it's all right.”