A new day for Beaujolais
Now that the grapes are in and harvest in the northern hemisphere has come to an end, I decided to read up how the season fared.
What caught my attention was that in Beaujolais, just south of Burgundy, France, all signs point to the vintage being “legendary.”
How fortunate for us, because our first opportunity to taste the results will be on Thursday. Yes, the third Thursday of November is official “Beaujolais Nouveau Day,” a day when Beaujolais Nouveau wine is released internationally, and the one day when the Gamay Noir grape gets the spotlight.
But what we’re tasting is only one side of this shapeshifter of a grape.
Beaujolais Nouveau is a wine that is fruity, fun and not meant to age long (the quintessential “live fast, die young” motto).
Winemakers in Beaujolais make this style of wine by use of carbonic maceration (an intracellular fermentation that results in a wine that boasts juicy fruit flavours, untraceable tannins, and is ready within two weeks).
Historically it was created in order to have something to sip and celebrate with when harvest ended, as all other wines were put in barrels to be made into more “serious” examples.
It’s the shapeshifting character of this grape that fascinates me.
It has the fun, Nouveau partyanimal side of it that we shamelessly enjoy, but also the quiet, reserved and understated version that offers its sippers an unusually light body for a red, with gentle tannins, firm acidity and the smell of a garden; wild flowers, dark berries and a subtle soil (“forest floor”) scent. It came to France as hero after the Black Death in the late 1300s and was joyously welcome largely in part to its qualities of early ripening and vigorous growth.
However, shortly after it was outlawed (twice, actually) by two separate dukes of Burgundy, banishing it to the south (present-day Beaujolais), in favour of its temperamental older brother, Pinot Noir.
It has remained in this position ever since. Pinot Noir, a grape as fussy as a cat (and one that makes you work just as hard to get reciprocal affection) is the anointed red grape of Burgundy and many argue makes the best wine in the world.
“Gamay who?” is what most around the world would say. Yes, little brother Gamay is certainly the underdog. If discussed, it’s often compared to Pinot Noir instead of being heralded for its own attributes (classic younger sibling woes), although that is starting to finally change.
Gamay has found its way to other corners of the world. It made a few stops in Europe, but then branched out to the New World, most notably for us, in Canada. From British Columbia to Nova Scotia this grape has found its home. Locally we have producers in Niagara giving us fantastic examples to enjoy such as 13th Street, Château des Charmes and Malivoire.
Here, we don’t brush off Gamay as second best, but love this grape for who he is. And he is so loveable. Because of the light body and gentle tannins, this is the red wine to pair with white meat (outlaws like to break the rules, remember). This is also the red wine that you can slightly chill (gasp!). Yes. It’s also a grape to enjoy throughout the seasons, from warm summer nights to cosy and cool autumn afternoons.
It’s my hope that Canada reidentifies Gamay Noir, as other areas of the world have done with expat French grapes (think of what New Zealand has done with Sauvignon Blanc and Argentina with Malbec). So far things are moving in this direction, and I genuinely hope it continues.
One good thing about being the underdog is that it’s trendy. I mean, this grape has its own hashtag (#gogamaygo) and its own annual festival in Portland, Ore., aptly named, “I Love Gamay,” complete with its own website. Hipsters and master sommeliers alike are loyal supporters, and it makes me proud and excited to be in a part of the world that could potentially change the legacy of this grape.
So, certainly venture out Thursday and celebrate Beaujolais Nouveau Day, but consider Gamay Noir beyond this annual offering. Try it for a change next time you’re dining at a restaurant or explore the offerings on the shelves of the LCBO or at our local wineries.
Take part in ensuring that Gamay feels welcome and appreciated in his new home, then let’s show the world what this outlaw has to offer.
Kristina Inman is a professor of food and beverage in the school of hospitality, tourism and sport at Niagara College and is a certified CAPS sommelier and TAC tea sommelier.