Il Covo

Thornhill Post - - Chef Pick -

Il Covo is at once both old school and of the mo­ment; the space is ro­man­tic without feel­ing forced. Chef-owner Ryan Camp­bell hopped over from Buca Yorkville along with Giuseppe March­esini, which ex­plains the fas­tid­i­ous­ness in both the room and the food. The menu is par­ti­tioned into three: the sea, the gar­den and the pas­ture. From the oceans arise tiny tri­an­gu­lar sand­wiches clutch­ing fried shrimp and scal­lop, one edge painted in chives and ready to dip in smokey lemon mayo. The gar­den yields a twisted pouch of pasta — scrigno, which is for­ever fun to say — that holds gooey Gor­gonzola and radic­chio in a splash of aged bal­samic. Fi­nally, a per­fect roasted buf­falo ri­cotta is sub­merged ta­ble­side in a del­i­cate hen brodo, each thyme-dot­ted petal de­mand­ing to be slowly savoured. Do not for­get dessert: a minia­ture torta al prosecco served on a sil­ver stand feels very Alice at the tea party and is just as much fun to eat. 585 Col­lege St.

“I love their ap­proach to the wine list, and their desserts are truly a hid­den gem.”

From top: Tramezzino fritto, Il Covo’s Lit­tle Italy din­ing room

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