Running out of gas is hard on fuel pump

Question: I had my five-year-old Saab towed after it ran out of gas. I was told the car now needs a new fuel pump, which will cost $1,100, because that’s what happens to the Saabs when they run out of gas! Sound crazy to you? GM offered $2,500 off a new GM car. Suggestions?

A.D. Answer: The significant question is: Did the car actually run out of gas or did the fuel pump fail? Until this is answered, I’d hesitate to replace the pump — or the car, for that matter.

It’s never a good thing to run out of gas. Besides the issues of inconvenience, location, danger, frustration, etc., it’s a bit hard on the vehicle mechanically. Modern fuel pumps are located inside the fuel tank and are cooled by the flow of fuel through them. Allowing the pump to run empty can generate heat that can lead to shortened fuel-pump life.

Most fuel-injection systems will run the fuel pump for a couple of seconds when the key is first turned on to make sure the system is pressurized for a fast start. Listen for this. If, after adding fuel to the tank the fuel pump doesn’t deliver fuel, have the shop confirm whether the pump is running or not. If the pump still doesn’t run or deliver fuel, it’s probably bad.

Ironically, the emergency test to determine if the fuel pump is bad is to pound on the bottom of the fuel tank with a rubber mallet while cranking the engine. If the vibration from pounding starts the pump and the engine fires up, drive to the shop to have the pump replaced.

Q: My wife’s ’97 Acura 2.2 had the “SRS” dashboard warning light come on last winter when the battery went dead. The local Acura dealer says it will cost $180 to turn it off (reset). This seems a bit spendy. What’s your opinion?

C.P. A: Because the issue involves the airbags and their potential danger if accidentally deployed, I can’t argue with letting the dealer handle it. They would scan for any DTC fault codes in the supplemental restraint system that may have triggered the light, and if none are found they would reset the SRS warning light through the reset connector in the driver’s footwell.

I found several online DIY guides for doing this but as I said earlier, because it’s the SRS system I can’t recommend this.

Paul Brand is an automotive troubleshooter, driving instructor and former race-car driver. Readers may write to him at paulbrand@startribune.com.