A dish that launched a legend

Julia Child was able to remember the single most decisive moment in her life with photographic clarity. It was her first bite of her first meal in France, a fish dish called sole meuniere. That first forkful, she wrote, was “a morsel of perfection,” and it set her on the path to becoming the Julia we’d come to know and love.

Sole meuniere — a filet of fish dipped in flour, then sauteed in butter — isn’t terribly complicated. But it’s a dish that really benefits from attention to detail.

Let’s start with the fish. Julia was served Dover sole. If you can’t find it, opt for Pacific flounder or Pacific sole or any firm-fleshed white fish.

Most white fish, even Dover sole, is a tad bland. Accordingly, sole meuniere is always finished with a little pick-me-up of lemon and salt. This recipe starts with acid and salt in the form of a salty buttermilk brine, which deeply pre-seasons the fish.

Two important points: Wait until the pan is almost smoking before adding the fish, and don’t flour the fish until the last minute, which will prevent it from becoming gummy.

Sole Meuniere

Start to finish: 30 minutes, plus one to three hours marinating time Makes: Four servings 1 cup buttermilk 1 tsp kosher salt 1 1/2 pounds firm white fish fillets 1 small lemon 3 to 4 Tbsp vegetable oil 1/2 cup instantized flour 3 Tbsp unsalted butter, cut into pieces 1 Tbsp drained capers • Chopped fresh parsley for garnish

In a resealable plastic bag, combine the buttermilk and salt and stir with a small whisk or fork until the salt is dissolved. Add the fish fillets, making sure they are coated with the buttermilk, seal the bag and place it in the refrigerator. Let the fish marinate for one to three hours.

While the fish is marinating, cut off the top and the bottom of the lemon. Place it on the cutting board cut-side down. Starting at the top, following the curve of the lemon, cut off the rind and the pith. Working over a small bowl to catch any juice, cut between the membranes to separate the lemon into segments. Reserve both the segments and the juice.

In a large non-stick skillet, heat half the oil over mediumhigh heat.

Remove half the fish from the buttermilk, letting the excess drip off, and dip it in the flour, coating it on all sides and shaking off the excess. Add it to the pan and cook it until golden on both sides and just cooked through, about three minutes total. Transfer the fish to a platter and cover it loosely with foil. Repeat the procedure with the remaining oil and fish. Discard any oil left in the pan.

Add the butter, the capers and a hefty pinch of salt to the skillet and cook over medium heat, swirling the butter, until it is golden. Add the lemon segments and cook, 2 to 3 minutes. Pour the sauce over the fish, sprinkle with the parsley and eat right away.