How you can repair a flaky ignition switch

Q&A

Question: I have a 2004 Focus. The issue is the ignition, I have to wiggle the key to remove it. It seems to get stuck about halfway. Do I replace the tumblers, the switch? The key seems worn but I’m afraid a new one will get stuck for good. The key will also fit in and out of the trunk but not open it. I’ve tried graphite and WD40.

S.C. Answer: Ignition switch issues are common on this model. Ford issued a technical service bulletin (TSB 05-21-17) in 2005 providing procedures for diagnosis and repair.

In the more common instance, the key is difficult to turn, and lock cylinder replacement is recommended. If the key is difficult to remove from an automatic transmission-equipped vehicle, there is also a chance the “key removal inhibit” circuit may be faulty. When the transmission selector is placed fully in park, a solenoid within the ignition switch (attached to the lock cylinder) extends, releasing the key. Since you are able to at least partially remove the key, this is somewhat unlikely to be the difficulty.

Lock-cylinder replacement seems to be indicated, as you have attempted lubrication. Replacement isn’t terribly difficult, my labour time guide suggests about 30 minutes, and the part can be sourced for about $50 US. There are plenty of online videos showing how it’s done — be sure to disconnect the battery terminal first! The supplied key will not fit your doors and trunk. Perhaps a new key, cut using the Focus key codes, would work better than your worn one for these locks. A locksmith could also alter your new lock cylinder to use this same key, prior to installation.

Q: My belt is squeaking on my car. A friend suggested giving it a shot of WD40 while the engine is running. Before I do this I wanted to check if it’s OK.

S.L. A: Don’t do it! Applying a lubricant or belt dressing may provide momentary relief but isn’t a good long-term cure.

Serpentine (wide/multi-ribbed) belts can become noisy due to several possible conditions. Incorrect belt tension, due to a faulty tensioner, can cause squealing, particularly during A/C use, making sharp turns, or acceleration, and this is most common just after a damp/cold morning engine start. Chirping could also be the result of loose belt tension or pulley misalignment.

Each of the engine’s belt-driven accessories must attach to the engine perfectly parallel to each other in order for the belt’s ribs to glide in and out of the corresponding pulley grooves. Sometimes a replacement accessory’s pulley may not be pressed on to its shaft to exactly the right depth, or an accessory’s mounting surface differs slightly from the original.

Another cause of chirping can be glazing of the belt’s rubber surface. An older belt’s friction surface often becomes hardened and shiny, and this can cause the belt ribs to vibrate as they engage the pulley grooves, resulting in offensive noise.

Here’s how to check for the cause of serpentine belt noise: Using a spray bottle containing water, from a safe distance, lightly wet the belt as the engine idles. If the noise diminishes, the cause is pulley misalignment or belt glazing. Should the noise increase, belt tension is insufficient. Removing the belt and reinstalling it in the opposite direction is another test. If the offending noise goes away, for a while, pulley misalignment is indicated. In many cases replacement of the belt will cure noise, but it may come back if the root cause isn’t repaired.

Q: Recently in helping my elderly father-in-law start his Lincoln, I came upon a quandary. When jump-starting a vehicle, I know that decades ago it used to be useful to run the rpm up in the vehicle providing the jump, thereby providing a higher voltage from the generator. In modern vehicles with alternators I know increased rpm doesn’t equal higher voltage, but does it provide higher amperage? Does it do anything? Is it at all useful to rev the engine of the vehicle providing the jump?

G.B. A: The voltage output is actually regulated to a maximum of fewer than 15 volts. Voltage pushes the electricity through the wires, while amperage is a measure of how much electricity is flowing. Using a garden hose for an analogy, voltage is the water pressure while amperage is how much water leaves the nozzle. Increasing the engine speed on the donor vehicle makes sure enough amperage (current) flows to the weak battery. Yes, it is helpful to rev the engine and hold it around 1,200 rpm. Brad Bergholdt is an automotive technology instructor at Evergreen Valley College in San Jose, California. Readers can email him at bradbergholdt@gmail.com; he cannot make personal replies.