Times Colonist

Can companies drive widespread change to sustainabl­e farming?

UVic researcher looking into private-sector business practices in the chocolate trade

- MARC FAWCETT-ATKINSON

Sophia Carodenuto is looking for ways to make food more sustainabl­e in an unusual place: The business practices used by the companies who control the world’s chocolate trade.

“On the one hand, you have the private sector driving deforestat­ion” in cocoa-producing regions, said the professor at the University of Victoria. “[But] the private sector can also be the instigator of sustainabl­e land use.”

Carodenuto — along with Janina Grabs, a postdoctor­al researcher at ETH Zurich’s Environmen­tal Policy Lab — wants to know how, and if, these businesses can drive widespread change to sustainabl­e farming.

Each year, the world consumes about four million tonnes of cocoa, most of it grown by small farmers in West Africa. The beans then pass between middlemen along increasing­ly concentrat­ed supply chains. By the time they reach supermarke­t shelves, over 60 per cent of the beans will have been controlled by three internatio­nal commodity companies, she said.

That creates an “hourglass” structure, she said. There are lots of farmers at one end and plenty of chocolate consumers at the other, but they’re only linked by a few large companies. It’s a structure replicated across most commodity supply chains, from coffee to corn.

Often, the same trading companies will manage several commoditie­s at once. For instance, the U.S.-based company Cargill trades cocoa, beef, seafood, and several other commodity crops.

That concentrat­ion gives those companies tremendous power over everything from farm-gate prices to farming techniques to the prices paid by consumers. For Carodenuto, that could be a way to encourage more sustainabl­e cocoa farming practices.

“Thinking about how to reach these millions of smallholde­r farmers … traders are often a key entry point because they aggregate the commodity, and they have a relationsh­ip with the farmer — more so, often, than the [government],” she said.

This influence has long been recognized by the trader — and their critics. More than 20 years ago, widespread concern about the environmen­tal and social impacts of industrial commodity farming spurred the creation of third-party certificat­ion systems like Rainforest Alliance, UTZ Certified, and Fairtrade. Commodity farmers — including cocoa farmers — need to meet specific environmen­tal, social, and economic standards to be certified.

Historical­ly, government­s also played an important oversight role. Since the 1990s, however, their leverage has weakened as many have adopted free trade-oriented policies.

More recently, however, major cocoa producers and manufactur­ers have also started to develop their own sustainabi­lity certificat­es. Mondelez

Internatio­nal, for instance, introduced its proprietar­y Cocoa Life scheme in 2012.

These efforts have the potential to be effective, she said. For instance, many farmers can’t afford to transition to more sustainabl­e practices alone. Traders could arguably even have an “ethical” responsibi­lity to offer financial and technical support to farmers they’re requiring to meet expensive sustainabi­lity requiremen­ts, she said.

But the impact of these corporate schemes remains unclear, Carodenuto said.

“What we’re seeing is that the large traders are really dictating a lot of these sustainabi­lity programs. There’s a move away from government-led sustainabi­lity approaches and more towards private sector [efforts],” she said. The private sector is often driving deforestat­ion, she noted. With Grabs, she is looking at whether those private sector sustainabi­lity initiative­s actually work.

“We’ve been looking at what are these sustainabi­lity approaches in practice? What are they actually trying to do? How do they compare to previous approaches? And we’ve found a huge gap in knowledge around what traders are actually doing,” she said.

And while they have tremendous influence over farmers and government­s, there remain gaps in how effectivel­y these large companies can trace the sustainabi­lity of their beans.

Most will draw some of their beans from sourcing areas where they have direct relationsh­ips with the farmers and more control over farming practices. The remainder — for some companies, up to 40 per cent — will come from smaller middlemen, eliminatin­g the larger companies’ control over how the beans were grown.

“We’re looking at traders from this diversity of perspectiv­es. You have these huge concentrat­ed companies … but then you also have an important role for traders that are operating informally and under less public scrutiny. There’s a lot less transparen­cy about what they’re doing — and those are some of the key players in terms of sustainabi­lity.”

Figuring out how to integrate those smaller players into sustainabi­lity initiative­s is also key, she said.

With their research in its infancy, Carodenuto and Grabs have no answers yet. Finding them, however, is increasing­ly important if we want to make cocoa and other commoditie­s more sustainabl­e, they said.

“This relationsh­ip between farmers and their downstream partners is so important for sustainabl­e supply chains,” said Carodenuto.

“This is where traders come in — they’re usually the ones who are the first point of contact with farmers. In other words, they provide a lot of hope for reaching out to millions of smallholde­rs who need support in changing their farming practices.”

 ?? PHOTO PROVIDED BY SOPHIA CARODENUTO ?? University of Victoria professor Sophia Carodenuto with cocoa farmers: Most of the four million tonnes of cocoa consumed annually worldwide is grown by smallholde­r farmers in West Africa. About 60 per cent of it will then be sold internatio­nally by three companies.
PHOTO PROVIDED BY SOPHIA CARODENUTO University of Victoria professor Sophia Carodenuto with cocoa farmers: Most of the four million tonnes of cocoa consumed annually worldwide is grown by smallholde­r farmers in West Africa. About 60 per cent of it will then be sold internatio­nally by three companies.

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