Croatia’s Dalmation Coast ideal spot to ease back into travel
Earlier this year, after getting vaccinated, a couple of friends and I decided to plan a longawaited European vacation, but not to any of the super popular spots. Underrated and 100% worth it, Croatia awoke that desire in me to travel again after being locked down for what felt like 16 years.
The Dalmatian Coast is home to the friendliest of people (everyone we spoke with said we were experiencing a rare moment in time where the cities weren’t overcrowded with tourists). All roads lead to crystal clear, teal waters where you can swim without a care in the world because there are no dangerous marine life (ie. sharks) here. It seemed, for such a quaint place, that there were more Michelinrated restaurants in a small radius than in New York City. That’s an exaggeration, but there were quite a few.
If you’re planning a trip to Croatia, the summer is a tad hot. It’s also more expensive since that’s when most people plan their longer vacations. Opt for a trip in the spring or fall, but if you do decide on summer, it’s the perfect weather for watersports, ferry rides and other outdoor/ water-adjacent adventures.
Our trip was short — a little over a week — so we stayed along the Dalmatian Coast, island and city-hopping every couple days or so to be able to experience everything the region had to offer. Headed to Croatia? We’ve got you covered with tips, activities, restaurant options and more.
Dubrovnik
In Dubrovnik your best bet is to book an Airbnb, in or outside of the walled city. But if you prefer the luxury of hotels, Hotel Excelsior Dubrovnik, Villa Orsula Dubrovnik and Hotel Bellevue Dubrovnik offer breathtaking Adriatic views and are just outside of and within walking distance of Old Town.
You’ll find the tiny Above 5 restaurant atop a boutique hotel and yes, it’s five stories up. But the climb is worth it at this Michelin Guide restaurant with 360-degree views of the Old Town. Reservations are a must as there are two timed seatings a night here and around eight to ten tables, total. Opt for three or five courses at this rooftop restaurant; the mushroom ravioli is spectacular as are the sea bass and the mango panna cotta.
Notable bars here include D’Vino Wine Bar (where you can taste local and regional reds and whites in an alley), Bard and Buza Bar — two cash-only outdoor spots on a cliff looking out to Lokrum Island.
Coveted activities here include kayaking and day trips to nearby islands including Lokrum. Climbing the Jesuit Stairs from Game of Thrones
are a must and make sure to squeeze in a cable car excursion or a walk around the Walls of Dubrovnik.
Korcula
Hop on an hour-long ferry from Hvar to Korcula and make sure you’re hydrated and you’ve had a good night’s sleep. Summer temps here can creep into the 30s and chances are you’ll spend some time outside checking out the town and various swimming spots. If you don’t have a car in Korcula, it’s a good place to rent one so you can drive around the island and discover places to eat al fresco as well as all the wineries in Lumbarda. There are at least a handful. Grk is the local white wine produced from a native grape that’s not found anywhere else in the world. Visit Bire Winery for variety and Lovric Winery for a white, rosé and red tasting that includes little snacks like tomatoes stuffed with cheese and anchovies and finishes with a shot of house-made grappa. Make the most of your stay by booking an Airbnb or rental apartment in Lumbarda or in Korcula’s Old Town for a couple of nights. Get ready for the next leg of your adventure but not before checking out Cocktail Bar Massimo (this rooftop bar on top of an old fort is accessed by ladder), the Michelin-starred LD restaurant inside Lesic Dimitri Palace and Restaurant Filippi. Split
Last but not least, Split. We took the ferry from Korcula to Split, which was pretty early in the morning, so be sure to check ferry/catamaran times and book accordingly. Azur Palace is a cool, small boutique hotel with an almost invisible entrance off a side street/alley across from an Asian market. Loft-style rooms are perfect for a group of two or four and the hotel has a quiet little courtyard and indoor library area with books and magazines to borrow. This city felt the most touristy and bars/ restaurants were pretty packed considering there were still no cruise ships docking at the time.
Rent a car or take a bus tour to Krka National Park. Swimming is no longer allowed here, but the waterfalls are still a sight if you’ve got at least a halfday to spare. If driving, Bibich Winery is a beautiful stop on the way back to Split from Krka. Ask for a customized tasting and don’t dare skimp on the food.
Explore Diocletian’s Pa lace on foot; you could spend hours winding in and out of the little souvenir shops, pubs and alleyway bars. You can’t go wrong with breakfast, lunch or dinner at Fig Split; there are gluten-free and vegan/vegetarian options on the menu, which can be a nice way to switch it up after loads of seafood and cheese-filled meals. Another option for a lively dinner is Bokeria kitchen + wine bar. The restaurant offers a Mediterranean-inspired menu with croquettes, gourmet burgers, charcuterie platters, pasta dishes and more.