Discover deep roots, high value in New Orleans neighbourhoods
Looking for heritage-rich romance this February? The Big Easy has your back.
With an abundance of food, fun and foot-tapping tunes, New Orleans is a destination that doesn’t disappoint. For travellers willing to step outside the typical tourist circuit, however, there’s much more to experience. From the spiritual practices of Marie Laveau and the origins of jazz to the Mardi Gras Indians and a notable civil rights history, the city has a diverse heritage that still influences local culture to this day. For a deeper sense of the Crescent City, set your sites beyond Bourbon Street.
Neighbourhoods
Bywater is within walking distance of the French quarter, and a quieter place to get a sense of day-to-day life in New Orleans. A must-see is Studio Be, the massive warehouse-sized exhibit space featuring amazing largescale works by artist Brandan Odums. Tickets are $15 per person for a one-hour, self-guided tour. The studio itself does appear to be inspiring the development of a further art scene in the area with mod building murals and a clay works nearby.
There are enough other establishments to easily enjoy an entire afternoon before heading back to your hotel. A coffee shop and brewery are within walking distance of Odums’ art venue, along with a couple of other gems. One is Bywater American Bistro, a fun little dining spot with a vibe that blends edgy with intimate. The limited menu changes frequently to keep things interesting for Bywater residents, and the midrange prices come with generous servings. The other spot to make time for is Markey’s Bar. Stocked with chatty, colourful locals who are an absolute hoot, it’s a great place to bend an elbow and perhaps squeeze in some time at the shuffleboard table.
If you make it over to the Lower 9th Ward, consider stopping by the new TEP Center developed by Leona Tate. The local civil rights icon has opened an educational and interpretive centre in the school she helped integrate as a child. Ribbon cutting for the building’s new historical marker will occur in early February. In the St. Roch area, those interested in learning more about the city’s deep ties to the Vodou faith or visiting the international shrine to Marie Laveau can stop by the New Orleans Healing Center.
Tremé, the setting and inspiration for the HBO television series of the same name, is an important centre for a number of cultural facets related to New Orleans’ past. Creole culture, jazz history and brass bands are only a few of the traditions with strong ties to this neighbourhood.
For an overall sense of Tremé’s history, consider booking a walking tour with French Quarter Phantoms. Starting at the Voodoo Lounge, the tour walks you through the artwork installations of Louis Armstrong Park, featuring statues of musical greats, including Buddy Bolden and Ms. Mahalia herself. It also takes you past Congo Square, which has been a weekly gathering spot for cultural and spiritual celebration since before the Civil War. It’s also where drumming, dancing and other activities still take place on Sundays, just as they have since the early days of the city.
Other highlights include the radio broadcast history of the area, and walking past the home of current jazz great Trombone Shorty, a reminder that New Orleans’ artistic heritage is tied as much to current legacy makers as it is to past ones. Booking the experience online ahead of time knocks the price down to $22 a head. Bonus? The wrist band from the tour gets you twofor-one hurricanes at the Voodoo Lounge after you’re finished.
Another spot to check out while in Tremé is the New Orleans African American Museum, which is open Thursday through Sunday each week. While there is normally a small fee to visit, it’s free to stop by on the third Saturday of each month. This is also when craft and food booths are available, and the fenced backyard is set up with seating for the monthly free concert in the afternoon. Neighbourhood locals and New Orleans natives from further afoot arrive with picnic supplies in tow, and an appreciation for a quality, cost-free event in the heart of one of the most historic neighbourhoods in the country.
Before you depart Tremé, take time to head to Dooky Chase’s and dive into a great meal. This fourth-generation family-owned restaurant had a notable role in the history of civil rights, and it has been serving up great grub since its very beginnings. The fried oyster Caesar salad is worth a try, as is the praline bread pudding. Also of note is the restaurant’s extensive local art collection, which is displayed along the perimeters of each room. As long as you are unobtrusive to other guests, it’s permissible to stroll and experience the pieces over a cocktail while waiting for your meal to arrive.
Food
When it comes to dining outside of neighbourhood-specific itineraries, there are a few food establishments worth going out of your way to experience. For example, die-hard carnivores will appreciate the funky vibe and contemporary Cajun cuisine at Toups’ Meatery. This Mid City gem features the culinary creations of former Top Chef contestant Isaac Toups. With family roots in the area going back 300 years, menu items definitely come with a hefty dose of heritage baked into the flavour. Must-try treats include the sized-to-share meatery board and marinated crab claws. If you come from Acadian country in the Northeast like I do, then you’ll be equally stoked to experience the hog head cheese and boudin balls.
Vyoone’s in the city’s Warehouse District is another quiet gem. Operated by a fourthgeneration New Orleanian, it features French cuisine in an atmosphere that’s both current and cosy. Priced a bit on the high end, it definitely falls into the splurge category. The food is excellent, however, and the service is superb.
Prefer to keep it simple? Make your way to Melba’s. When it comes to off-beat affordability with plenty of blue-collar authenticity, this place is tough to beat. Open 24 hours a day with a wall of daiquiri options and generously stuffed shrimp poboys, the venue is a local favourite. They also have a killer community literacy program, so it’s safe to say your dining dollars will be even more well spent.
Music
One of the coolest heritage gems in the city is Musical Legends Park. This French Quarter freebie features phenomenal art honouring the city’s famed performers from years gone by, an intimate atmosphere and live performances starting in the mornings.
The café on the perimeter sells coffee, breakfast cocktails, beignets and other items, making it a great place to start the day or take a break from a fastpaced tourist itinerary.
Then of course, there’s Tipitina’s. Established in the 1970s as a performance site for Professor Longhair himself,
New Orleans native Mr. Henry Roeland Byrd, the venue has become popular with numerous well-known local artists and is a must-visit music spot for those visiting the city.
For a more bespoke experience in a romantic setting, consider checking out one of the weekend performances of local songstress Robin Barnes.
Known as the Songbird of New Orleans, she performs exclusively at the Polo Club Lounge located in the Windsor Court Hotel. If you have Friday or Saturday evening slots in your schedule, you can enjoy her in the intimate atmosphere of the lounge over a wine pour or your cocktail of choice.
As vacation price tags go, New Orleans offers a surprisingly accessible one. Reasonable beverage tabs, high-value food options and entrance fees most will find within reach all combine to keep overall travel costs down. Staying in or near the French Quarter? Many mustdo highlights are within walking distance. Those that aren’t can be easily reached with a Lyft ride. With the option to skip the cost of the rental car, and a new batch of bargain flight routes, New Orleans is more affordable now than ever.