Springtime asparagus pasta defined by textural contrast
One of the pillars of great cooking is ensuring that each dish features ample textural contrast, an element as important as flavour. Once you strike the balance of sweet, salty, acidic, bitter and savoury, it’s crucial to consider creamy, crispy, chewy and more.
But incorporating different textures doesn’t necessarily require additional ingredients. As in this lively springtime pasta dish inspired by one at the River Cafe in London, the solution can be as simple as cooking asparagus in two batches.
In this recipe from our book Tuesday Nights Mediterranean, which features weeknightfriendly meals from the region, the asparagus is finely chopped in the food processor. Half is sautéed until tender and half is added later in the cooking to preserve its crisp texture. One vegetable, two textures.
A cup of cream and some of the starchy cooking water binds the asparagus into a silky sauce just thick enough to coat the chewy, al dente pasta.
Lemon zest and a squeeze of lemon juice at the table brighten
up the flavours. And a quartercup of grated Parmesan lends a savoury nuttiness that ties the flavours together.
Creamy Asparagus Pasta
Start to finish: 25 minutes Makes: Four servings
2 lbs. asparagus, tough ends
trimmed, cut into one-inch pieces
• Kosher salt and ground black pepper
8 oz wide, flat pasta, such as tagliatelle or fettuccine 1 Tbsp salted butter
2 medium garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 medium shallots, halved and thinly sliced
1 cup heavy cream
1/4 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese, plus more to serve
1 tsp grated lemon zest, plus lemon wedges to serve
In a food processor, pulse the asparagus until finely chopped, about 15 pulses. Measure out 1 1/2 cups chopped asparagus and set aside.
In a large pot, bring 4 quarts water to a boil. Add 1 Tbsp salt and the pasta, then cook, stirring occasionally, until the pasta is al dente. Reserve 1 cup of the cooking water, then drain.
Meanwhile, in a nonstick 12-inch skillet over mediumhigh, melt the butter. Add the garlic, shallots and 1/2 tsp salt, then cook, stirring occasionally, until the shallots are softened, one to two minutes. Add the asparagus in the processor and cook, stirring often, for two minutes. Add the cream and the reserved 1 1/2 cups asparagus, then bring to a simmer over medium. Cook, stirring often, until a spoon drawn through the mixture leaves a two-second trail, two to three minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the Parmesan and
1/4 tsp salt.
Add the drained pasta and 1/4 cup of the reserved cooking water to the asparagus-cream mixture and set the pan over medium. Toss, adding cooking water 1 Tbsp at a time as needed, until the sauce is silky and clings to the pasta. Stir in the lemon zest, then taste and season with salt and pepper. Serve with additional Parmesan and lemon wedges.