Living the wine dream in Beamsville
Gord On Grapes
BEAMSVILLE— Many folks, especially those who flock to wine country tasting rooms, begin to secretly nurture the daydream of some day starting a winery. Few ever realize their vision. Those who do manage to create a winery command my respect, even reverence. It is a very risky business and a monumental investment in time.
Yet, in Ontario wine country they still come, from all walks of life, willing to change their professions, clear the lands or orchards, plant vines and put up buildings. When it works — as at Fielding Estate Winery here in Beamsville, where truly outstanding wines have emerged very quickly — it is a modern miracle. The mom and pop of this operation are Marg and Ken Fielding, whose roots are in Minden. Ken handles franchises in that region for Subway sandwich shops. The transition from fast food to slow wine has been a real adventure for the couple, who share a passion for the grape. Winemaker Andrzej Lipinski came from Poland in 1989. He worked as a car mechanic, then on building sites, including Vineland Estates, where he ran into his true profession and by 1998 had made a gold medal chardonnay. As the Fielding wines testify, he is a meticulous winemaker. Son Curtis Fielding, the assistant winemaker and general manager, was a speed demon. He raced cars on the CASCAR circuit in Ontario, but also put in time in the Niagara vineyards. He sees parallels to stock car racing in the teamwork it takes to make a great wine.
I made a pit stop at the winery “ lodge” on a recent rainy Saturday to taste the fruits of Curtis’s and Andrzej’s labour. While dodging bus tours spilling out wine tourists, I discovered some stellar wines.
Hospitality manager Heidi Burch migrated over from JacksonTriggs and is Curtis’s fiancé, making this even more of a family winery. She explained that their vineyards originally were peach and pear orchards. Old orchards make great vineyards, not only in Niagara, but Prince Edward County, Washington State and the Okanagan Valley. Be forewarned, Fielding wines are available at the winery, not the LCBO. Fully 80 per cent of Ontario wines never make it to our monopoly’s shelves. However, that matters less nowadays because customers can order direct from the wineries via the Internet and get home delivery.
Fielding is still a small producer, at 7,000 cases a year. A bad winter hit merlot and syrah and decimated their sauvignon blanc and viognier, so now they have five wind machines on order to stir freezing winter air over the vineyards and cut back on next winter’s damage.
Entry level consists of a Fireside 2004 White ($ 9.95, rating 86 out of 100), made from vidal grapes with pleasant peach and acacia floral notes. And Fireside 2004 Red ($ 10.95, 85), is a smoky baco noir with a tang of acidity. From there, the wines climb fast in quality.
Their best- selling white — pinot gris — flew out of the winery. Remaining in stock is a stunning 2004 Chardonnay Musque ($ 13.95, 89), full of sweet- edged, flowery-accented pear spiciness. The
2004 Riesling Reserve ($ 19.95, 89) shows pear, lime- drop and honeyed notes, with a dry finish to balance the slight sweetness of super- ripe fruit.
Top- of- the- line whites are the 2003 Chardonnay Reserve ($ 27.95, 91) with smoky roasted coconut and baked apple richness ( 20 of 50 cases are left). The 2004 Chard Reserve ($ 28, 90) shows similar smoky toasty notes, with more citrus and finesse rather than power.
In reds,
2004 Pinot Noir Reserve ($ 34, 91) provides classic noir beets, violets, cherry and plummy notes from 12- year- old vines in the Wismer Vineyard. A great value is 2004 Cabernet Franc ($ 15, 89), with raspberry, red peppers, cedar and succulent black cherry flavours. The 2002 Cabernet Merlot Reserve ($ 35, 92) is lush, with rich cassis, vanilla and licorice intensity. The best wines are still sleeping, finishing aging in barrel. A 2004 Meritage ($ 35, 91) displays rich black currant, black cherry intensity. My top pick, 2004 Syrah Reserve (price TBA, 93) promises to be worldclass, with monster smoke, black cherry, black pepper, violets and exotic herbs. Both will be released in early 2006. Go to www. fieldingwines. com for more information.
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Several new wines have been accepted by the LCBO’s Craft Winery program, which allows smaller Ontario producers into selected stores and if the wines sell really well, perhaps even get wider distribution on general list. Watch for Willow Springs 2003 Chardonnay ($ 12.95, 87) with lemony spicy apple accents and a hint of grapefruit, and Angels Gate 2004 Sussreserve Riesling ($ 12.95, 88) with spicy lime, honeyed lemon- drop and rich peachy flavours, with just enough sweetness to be quaffed on its own or matched to coconutbased Thai dishes.
Six young ladies, all owners or winemakers of top-end Bordeaux chateaux, will grace a special “Feminine Face of Bordeaux” dinner at the Fairmont Royal York on Nov. 15. Tickets are $195 per person through Vintages 416- 365- 5767. See details at www. vintages. com. Email Gordon Stimmell at: gstimmell@thestar.ca.