Four good brunch spots in Montreal
Eggs Benedict, smoked meat and bountiful bagels
Downtown Montreal has so many excellent places to eat at any time of day or night, that a list of the best brunch spots is a bit like picking a Stanley Cup winner in December: Lots of opinion, plenty of choice and everybody is right.
Bearing that in mind, here are four on my list: The Plateau has more than its fair share of restaurants, but start with Beauty’s at 93 Mount Royal at St. Urbain. This diner has been a fixture since 1942, and 70 years later owner Hymie Sckolnick — who turned 90 in August — can still be found greeting guests on a Sunday.
Big portions, fast, friendly service and lineups by 10 a.m when Mcgill students start wandering up the hill. The fluffy cream cheese is made for the restaurant and when combined with a bagel, tomato, smoked salmon and a little onion, “it makes a beautiful sandwich,” Sckolnick said recently. Hard to disagree. Prices are up since 1942: The 65-cent breakfast combo is now between $10 and $15.
A block over at 4320 St. Laurent is Bagels Etc., Leonard Cohen’s breakfast spot. Like Beauty’s, if you’re not early expect to wait. The inside is eclectic diner chic with about 50 tables. The eight choices of Eggs Benedict come on a bagel with gently spiced home fries. The hollandaise met my definition of perfect — thin enough to run slowly down a raised fork and the eggs just lightly liquid in the centre. A little cheaper than Beauty’s, with basic combos about $10. Prices rise as you head off the Pla- teau and downtown. Reuben’s Deli at 1116 St. Catherine near Peel (there’s another at 888 St. Catherine) has smart décor and a great view of the passing parade. There’s debate about whether the smoked meat (inset) can go toe to toe with Schwartz’s (on St. Laurent near Beauty’s). But Schwartz’s isn’t open for breakfast and while their smoked meat may be a bit better, the ambience, service and location are not. It’s kind to say Schwartz’s interior shows its age and, as a Zagat reviewer put it, the wait staff can afford to be surly so they often are.
At Reuben’s, the rye had a pleasing wobble on top of a mound of meat, the dill was fat and sour and the portion big enough to share. You pay for the location, but hey, you’re on holiday.
A short walk west and north from Reuben’s at 2055 Peel, near Sherbrooke is the Universel. (There’s a second one on St. Denis). It is classy and elegant with an upscale bistro feel. The yoghurt is made on the premises and the service spoiled us as did the wide choice of food from standard egg and meat fare to breakfast and desert crepes. The presentation was wonderful and the bold blend of breakfast coffee fabulous. It is also recommended for lunch or dinner with an outdoor patio in summer.
A little pricier than the Plateau, basic Eggs Benedict and omelettes are $11-15. Adam Mayers is the editor of Moneyville.ca