Toronto Star

Australian beauties prove exception and Rule

- GORD STIMMELL WINE CRITIC

I was delighted to discover Plunkett Fowles Stone Dwellers 2008 Shiraz among the100 or so wines in the latest Vintages release. It rates a 92, (see review above) as high a score as the Stone Dwellers 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon released last summer, my highest rated general list wine of the year. Both are $19.95, but the 2008 Cabernet is long sold out.

Like many world-class wineries, Plunkett Fowles has even better reds in its home stable in Oz, that have not yet made it to shelves in Ontario.

I recently tasted its flagship shiraz, The Rule, made by Sam Plunkett from exceptiona­l lots and parcels. This silky monster merited a solid 95 score, and runs $50 in Australia. And even higher is The Exception Reserve Shiraz, extremely limited at $125 Australian.

Yet another biggie for Oz fans is Chapel Hill Winery 2009 Mclaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon (#965830, $24.95, 91) with mace, smoked bacon, mocha and black cherry richness. It can cellar easily for five or more years.

California is a big feature in this current Vintages release as well.

The Macmurray Ranch Chardonnay (see review above) is made on the old Fred MacMurray ranch nestled in a lovely bowl of mountains in Sonoma, Calif. The actor ( My Three Sons and many movies) bought the cattle ranch in1941and made it his home until his death in 1991. On a visit, I met his daughter Kate, a vivacious wine enthusiast who continues to represent the brand after giant Gallo took over the ranch and winery operations. For connoisseu­rs, this release offers monster Lotusland cabernet sauvignons, some with prices that make me cringe. Included in the gems are three icons, ideal for enthusiast­s with large cellars for optimum aging of wines. Leader of the California dreamers is Robert Mondavi 2007 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (#670463, $139.95, 93/94) with brooding mocha, violets and graphite prowess. Runner-up is Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de Latour Private Reserve 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (#80218, $89.95, 92/3) brimming with monster cassis and pencil shavings complexity. And Dunn Vineyards 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (#193854, $87.95, 91) shows lavish blackberry, mocha and black raspberry finesse.

Some of the remaining Cali Cabs in the Vintages feature are way overpriced, so buyer-beware, no matter what the winery’s reputation has been in the past.

Happy wine hunting! stimmell@sympatico.ca

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