Marrowing experience
Leslieville's newish Goods and Provisions has developed a loyal following for its no-fuss bistro fare. A schmear of its roasted bone marrow on bread is all you need to see why. We asked chef Ryan Mcleod to show us the surprising amount of work that goes i
1. PREPARATION
Cut canoe-style for easier cooking and eating, the bones are soaked in cold salt water for upwards of 24 hours to draw out the blood and leave a clean white marrow. Macleod alternates between veal and beef femur bones sourced from local Ontario farmers. “We played with the idea of using water buffalo,” says Macleod, “but the bones were just too big.”
2. ROASTING THE BONES
Macleod puts a little olive oil in a pan and places the bones, marrow down, to roast for about 10 minutes at 425°F. This gives the marrow a light sear and allows rusty-looking juices to seep out. He then turns the bones over and cooks them through. The timing has to be just right: too long and the marrow will melt away, too short and it’ll taste rather bovine. “It’s just like cooking a steak,” he says.
3. THE BREAD
“The sourdough probably makes the whole dish,” Macleod says of J.P. Challet’s bread. Delivered fresh to the store every day, the bread is cut and toasted for each order. However, with a small kitchen and no toaster, the kitchen staff gets creative. “We use the bottom rack from a roasting pan and just lightly singe the bread over an open flame,” says Macleod.
4. THE PARSLEY SALAD
This is what Macleod calls the citrus factor. Parsley is mixed with shallots, capers, olive oil, lemon juice, and finished with salt and pepper, for an herbaceous, salty, crunchy accoutrement. “It gives the dish a little bite— otherwise, it would be too rich for most people,” he says.
5. THE DISH
Once the marrow is cooked through, the bones are pulled out of the oven and finished with a pinch of flaky Maldon salt. The dish is a great way to start a meal: The creamy, rich marrow is spread on the dense, crispy bread and finished with the salty-sour parsley salad. “It’s basically just bread and butter,” Macleod says. “Well, meat butter.”