Six things to do in . . . Montmartre
This historic and colourful area of Paris is still red-hot with jazz clubs, artists and fashion boutiques
PARIS— Since the 1800s, Montmartre’s cobblestone streets, steep staircases and city-spanning views have attracted painters, musicians and — since alcohol wasn’t taxed at Parisian rates — partiers.
These bohemian aristocratic traditions continue today with jazz bars, street artists and fashion boutiques. After climbing up the hill to Sacre-coeur Basilica and checking out the view, these Montmarte experiences are not to be missed. 1. Discover an underground haven for Dali fans
Though cherished by Dali fans, tourists often overlook this small but powerful museum. But anyone who’s spent time in the dizzying marble expanse of the Louvre will appreciate the intimate feel of this black-walled and gorgeously lit space. The underground showcase of more than 300 works of Salvador Dali can be found a couple blocks west of the Sacre-coeur. The collection includes Dali’s watercolours and drawings from the ’60s onward, mostly inspired by Greek mythology and Christian theology along with stories such as Alice and Wonderland and Romeo and Juliet. Some of the Italian surrealist’s whimsical furniture, including the famous lips sofa, is also housed here. Espace Dali, 11 Rue Poulbot. 2. Relive Montmartre’s jazz heyday
When jazz exploded upon Paris’s liberation from Nazi occupation, “the two centres of jazz were Montmartre and St. Germain des Pres” says Yves Faucher, the owner of Autour de Midi et Minuit, a converted cellar jazz bar. Although his bar is only 11 years old, Faucher is intent on continuing the tradition by eschewing contemporary jazz for bebop and swing. Free jam nights Tuesday to Thursday see wild-card voices emerging from the cramped audience, while the more rehearsed sets on Friday and Saturday cost about $20, including a drink. Bands change nightly and can be sampled beforehand on the bar’s website. Arrive at 9 p.m. (half an hour before the music) to get a seat. The stage room of the arch-roofed cellar only fits about 40, so you’ll get to know your neighbours. Autour de Midi et Minuit, 11 rue Lepic.
3. Indulge your sweet tooth Both the pink paisley decor of Miss Cupcake and the immaculately iced cupcakes are so picture-perfect, you’ll want to take your time, with little girlish bites. Although the menu changes daily, one cupcake that remains a daily staple is Tiramisu: a lady-finger-evoking cake with a gooey mocha centre, topped with inches of mascarpone icing. “It’s my specialty,” says cupcake chef Feriel Ben Brahim. For your sugar foodie back home, stop in at Christophe Roussel for a creative take on the macaron. Why bring home plain pistachio macarons when you can opt for pistachio with morello cherry filling? Miss Cupcake, 22 rue de la Vieuville; Roussel, 5 Rue Tardieu. 4. See the French Cancan Many a Moulin-rouge-goer feels ripped off when they realize most numbers aren’t as neatly choreographed as one might expect for 100 euros (that includes half a bottle of inexpensive champagne). Nonetheless, the cabaret show almost always packs a full house. Be sure to pass on the sub-par dinner (100 euros extra), unless you really want a front-row seat, and do pay attention to the paintings adorning the walls. They’re all by Henri de Toulouse-lautrec, Montmartre’s famous 5-foot-1-inch painter who captured the steamier side of late 1800s aristocratic life. Moulin Rouge, 82 Boulevard de Clichy.
5. Master a ‘Bourgeois Bohemian’ look Unlike Paris’s more central shopping districts, you won’t see North American names here. Aside from a handful of high-end French chains such as Ba&sh and Maje, Montmartre is brimming with one-off boutiques that mix Amelie’s whimsy with quality-crafted luxury. Check out Haricot Vert for unique flatware, lamps and home décor; Paperdolls for bourgeois bohemian fashions; and Antony Delos for artisan shoes individually crafted for the wearer. Haricot Vert, 51 rue Lamarck; Paperdolls, 5 rue Houdon; Antony Delos, 5 rue Constance. 6. When in France . . . eat escargots While most of the restaurants in Montmartre get away with being stuffy and overpriced, Relais Gascon’s two locations are popular even with locals. With simple offerings of French classics such as confit de canard, pesto-glazed escargots and boeuf bourguignon for under 15 euros, it’s no wonder. As a bonus, the no-frills bistro serves up generous sides of garlic-sautéed frites and salads grand enough to fulfill one’s weekly veggie quota. Those with jam-packed schedules will appreciate that the restaurant is open all day, unlike the many other Parisian hotspots that adhere to strict lunch and dinner windows. Relais Gascon: 6, rue des Abbesses, 13, rue Joseph de Maistre. Wendy Glauser is a freelance writer based in Toronto.