Crêpe aux champignons wins heart
Walk-ins are welcome at simple and spare bistro with flair
SIMPLE BISTRO Address: 619 Mount Pleasant Rd., 416483-8933, www.simplebistro.com Hours: Saturday to Sunday 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
On the Menu: A well-edited selection of elegant brunch options as well as heftier plates. Bigger appetites will appreciate the dry aged New York striploin steak frites served with red wine jus and tarragon mayo for dipping.
Those looking for lighter options, such as our dining companion chef Pascal Ribreau (who owned nearby restaurant Célestin before moving on to other projects), might choose the warm, shredded duck confit salad served with blond frisée, arugula, apple chips, pine nuts and raisins in a Banyuls vinaigrette ($18).
Ribreau’s wife Laurie and my husband opt for the French bistro classic Croque Monsieur ($13) with its golden crust, smoked ham and gooey cheese-laden interior. They agree that while absolutely delicious, it’s more of a toasted sandwich than a traditional croque monsieur.
“This version doesn’t have the mornay sauce — a béchamel with gruyere and nutmeg that normally coats the entire sandwich before it’s toasted,” says Laurie, adding, “it’s still good, just not the same as you’d find in France.”
Homemade brioche-style bread, gruyere cheese inside, a dressed side of greens and skinny frites makes for a fine brunch option.
It’s the crêpe aux champignon, however, that steals the sandwich’s thunder. A wafer-thin crêpe houses gently scrambled truffled eggs, sautéed mushrooms and goat cheese, served alongside house greens and those salty, crispy, addictive frites. Now this is how to enjoy the humble scramble! The “I’d Wake Up Early to Eat That Again!” Dish: The crêpe aux champignons ($14) and a bowl of the silky, earthy mushroom bisque with a drizzle of hazelnut and parsley pis- tou on top ($11).
The Queue: We make reservations for 11 a.m. and are the second party to arrive. By the time we leave an hour and a half later, the room is almost full. Walk-ins welcomed.
The Vibe: As its moniker states, this bistro is simple and spare. Red brocade upholstered chairs are the frilliest decor detail amidst cream walls and dark hardwood. Adark back bar gives the room a je
ne sais quoi; a few strategically placed mirrors make the cosy 38seater feel more spacious. Professional neighbourhood couples who walk to the bistro, a couple of old friends and one raucous group fill up the restaurant.
Kid-friendliness: We call ahead and ask for an extra seat for our little gal, which nets us a six top for our party of five. She sleeps through much of the proceedings, but if she was toddler age and not a well-behaved 1, we’d think twice. Simple is a more grown-up affair — quiet and calm with food that’s meant to be savoured and not shovelled down stat to appease the whirling dervish that might make a scene.
Joe and Other Liquid Assets: Good, hot and bottomless coffee, just the way the weekend weary like it, for $2.50. We give it 3 out of 4 beans.
Price Tag: $64, with tax and tip