417 Restaurant & Lounge
Many a local blog may argue the next big thing lies west of Yonge St., but the fine folks who live east of the Bloor Viaduct know the good times have been rolling on the Danny for years. The new 417 Restaurant & Lounge, which opened in July, is a family affair that boasts Ontario brewers on tap and locally-sourced food in the kitchen. The grassroots — or Greek roots, in this case — resto-lounge is the brainchild of Eleni Goutanous, daughter of Tony and Sophie Pavlou, who ran the neighbourhood Foodland store and IGA.
The vibe: Refined, but deceptively unpretentious. General manager Drew Burke- Gaffney notes on opening night he had staffers dress in somewhat frou-frou outfits, then, in a “What have I done?” moment, sent them home to change into black V-necks and jeans because passersby were intimidated. The two-level space features fake fireplaces and wall mounts of teem- ing water. There’s room enough (417 seats 245 people) to separate the diners behind the high, glass displays of house, Ontario and imported wines from the loungers seated in the scarlet banquettes and streetside patio. Speakers pipe in a mix of Sinatra, Dean Martin and
Arcade Fire. If there’s one complaint (and it’s minor), it’s that the copper piping dividing the lounge from the dining area looks out of place in the dark, granite-coloured space.
The drinks: Burke-Gaffney (son of the Toronto Sun’s Mike BurkeGaffney) signed on for creative control over the bar. Twenty Ontario craft beers on draft come off glycol decks, so you always ought to get a cold pour. The most popular among them are Flying Monkey Hoptical Illusion, Dead Elephant and Thornbury Cider, around $6 before tax. The liquor licence was reclassified so 417 could become a wine pub: they make their own wine and pour it for $1 an ounce. Wine is classified according to body and flavour as opposed to colour, origin and price in the interest of leading wine drinkers who have their “go-tos” into the deeper end of the pool. “Aromatic whites” such as Burning Kiln Riesling and Pescaja Arneis Solo Luna go for $40 and $85 a bottle respectively and “mediumbodied reds” such as Megalomaniac Niagara and Luigi Drocco Dolcetto D’Alba at $50 and $60. Tom Eddy Cabernet Sauvignon goes for $245 a bottle. Cocktails are $10 for around a 1.5-oz. pour and the drink list includes the Sazerac. The signature is the Absolut 417: that brand’s Elyx vodka, rose liqueur, pressed apple and lime, garnished with an edible flower.
The food: Chef and longtime friend of Burke-Gaffney, Kai Zyganiuk (Black Moon), leads the kitchen. Hits include Braised Beef Ravioli with black truffle cream sauce and pea sprouts ($22) and the HerbRoasted Ontario Pickerel and Rosemary ($24). Dress code: Casual. Must Know: Kitchen closes at 10 p.m. Monday through Wednesday; 11 p.m. Thursday through Saturday. All cards accepted. Private upstairs lounge available for corporate functions. For more bar reviews, visit us online at thestar.com/bars.