Saison a real thirst quencher

Beer geeks sometimes use the term “lawn mower beer” as a somewhat pejorative way to refer to a brew which is refreshing, but not terribly compelling.

But thirst-quenching beers don’t have to be boring.

Want some proof? Try the latest brew from Great Lakes Brewing. The Great Lakes Saison is the second instalment of a four-beer series celebrating the Etobicoke brewery’s 25th anniversary.

The saison style evolved in Belgium as a way to keep farmhands refreshed during the summer. It’s a style as varied as the brewers who make it. Some traditional examples were as low as 3.5 per cent alcohol while many modern versions are up to 8 per cent. Plenty have a spicy character, too. One thing they all have in common — at least the good ones — is that they’re good thirst-quenchers.

The Great Lakes version is a peach-coloured, cloudy brew, with a slightly fruity, spicy aroma (think fresh apricots and coriander). The flavour alsh has a bitter, peppery finish. In some Belgian saisons, those spice notes come from the yeast. In this one, the Great Lakes brewing team, led by Mike Lackey, added actual spices, in particular coriander seed, black peppercorns, and grains of paradise, a spice native to West Africa.

While the spices are noticeable, none overwhelm the other flavours. That balancing act was strictly by design, says Great Lakes president Peter Bulut Jr.

“We were trying not to have any one of the flavours sticking out. I think with this recipe we managed that pretty well,” said Bulut. The anniversary brews are meant to be one-offs, but the saison and the first porter have been so well-received, that might change, says Bulut. “It’s pretty hard not to want to do them again, with the response we’ve gotten, so we’ll see.”

GREAT LAKES 25TH ANNIVERSARY SAISON

WHERE TO BUY: LCBO

PRICE: $9.95 FOOD PAIRINGS: Grilled calamari, sardines, salmon.

VERDICT: Proof that refreshing doesn’t have to mean boring.