Toronto Star

BAR OF THE WEEK

- BRIAN TOWIE TORONTO STAR

TALLBOYS CRAFT BEER HOUSE

838 Bloor St. W. Open Monday to Friday, 4 p.m. to 2 a.m.; Saturday and Sunday, 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. 416-535-7486 tallboysba­r.com If you’re looking for an intricate backstory behind Tallboys, you’re barking up the wrong tree. After years in the industry that included stints at Wayne Gretzky’s and the Black Dog Pub in the way-out part of Scarboroug­h (near Port Union Rd.), the trio of Kevin Kennedy and his cousins, brothers Tom and Phil Cacace, decided to strike out on their own. So what kind of bar to open? They like hanging out and drinking beer; a tallboy has more beer in it than a bottle does. Ergo, open a bar that sells tallboys and food that pairs well.

But look in the fridge and you won’t find just any old tall can, the most notorious sporting brand names that hail from central and eastern Europe and which, if consumed en masse, will have your liver claiming overtime pay. No, we’ve got fiercely loyal To- rontonians on our hands here, exclusivel­y serving Ontario craft beers and draughts from within the GTA. Since its August opening, Tallboys’ formula has tested well.

The vibe: The Tallboys group decked out the venue to simulate the inside of a TTC streetcar or subway station with stark red, black and a train’s gunmetal grey, adding “Ossington” and “Dupont” on the walls in the transit system’s go-to font (the latter even has lines drawn behind it imitating the tile work at that station). Add old photos of road crews installing streetcar lines on Bay St. and a trolley heading down Yonge St., and know Tallboys takes municipal heritage seriously. Two TVs broadcast sports here, though they do so with the sound off. While sporty, Tom notes Tallboys doesn’t want to garner a sports bar reputation.

The drinks: No signature cocktails here, but the 40-some Ontario craft beers ought to make up for it. Tom notes the limited seasonals, such as Neustadt Springs’ Texas Tea and Sauerkraut Lager, don’t last long in the fridge. Tall cans run between $6.25 and $7.25. On tap, the Junction Conductor’s Craft Ale ranks as the most popular at $5.75 a pint.

The food: Tallboys has a reputation for the Koreatown Burger (kimchi, bacon, cucumber and green onion mayo for $13), and a menu expansion should see tacos get a push. Dress code: Casual. Must know: On Thursday, to mark the end of the Blue Jays’ less-thansucces­sful season, Tallboys will replay both Game 6’s of the Jays’ back-to-back 1992 and 1993 World Series Championsh­ip victories.

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 ?? BRIAN TOWIE/TORONTO STAR ?? Tallboys, at Bloor and Ossington, wears its hometown pride on its sleeve, with TTC-inspired decor and a wide range of local beers.
BRIAN TOWIE/TORONTO STAR Tallboys, at Bloor and Ossington, wears its hometown pride on its sleeve, with TTC-inspired decor and a wide range of local beers.

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