Toronto Star

Beer is the better match for turkey time

- JOSH RUBIN BEER COLUMNIST

If you’re like most Canadians, beer probably won’t be a big part of your Thanksgivi­ng dinner.

You might have one while cooking the turkey or ham, or after the relatives are gone. But on the dinner table? Odds are you’ll offer up a bottle or two of riesling.

But when it comes to the traditiona­l holiday feast, beer is by far the better match thanks to its range of flavours, not to mention a handy little tool called carbonatio­n.

Here are a few holiday ideas: Pre-dinner: While roasting the turkey or giving your guests something to quench their thirst while they wait, a good Pilsner is just the thing. Its blend of gentle sweetness, slightly spicy aroma and bitter finish won’t overwhelm the palate ahead of the meal.

Try imports Wernesgrun­er and Pilsner Urquell, and locals King Pilsner and Steam Whistle (all available at the LCBO and Beer Store). Dinner: Riesling is often paired with turkey because its sweetness complement­s the caramelize­d, salty and crispy turkey skin while its acidity keeps the wine from being cloying. With beer, take a similar approach, with the bitterness of hops standing in for wine’s acidity.

Strong ales, such as Shipyard XXXX IPA ($7.95), Rogue Double Dead Guy ($10.25), Fuller’s ESB ($2.80) or Muskoka Harvest Ale ($8.95) are all somewhat sweet, but with a hefty dose of hoppy bitterness. These beers are also bold enough to handle the other fixings, whether it’s an herb-laden stuffing, or tart cranberry sauce. The hops — not to mention the carbonatio­n — also do a good job of cutting the richness of a traditiona­l gravy.

With ham, something sweet or spicy will do — Ayinger Celebrator ($3.60), a classic German double bock, and Schneider Aventinus, a wheat bock. Celebrator is sweet without being syrupy; Aventinus has a rich, heady aroma of cloves (it’s also dynamite with goose). Dessert: If you’re having pumpkin pie for dessert, why not pair it with a pumpkin beer? Try and choose something that’s at least as sweet as the pie, like Southern Tier Pumking ($8.95 at LCBO), or the beer will suffer by comparison. Pumking actually does an uncanny job of mimicking the aroma of a freshly baked pumpkin pie. If, however, you prefer a dark, strong coffee, you might be better off choosing something like Wellington Russian Imperial Stout. The dark roasted malts in this luscious, boozy brew are an excellent way to wrap up any meal. josh@thestar.ca

 ??  ?? Strong ales, such as Fuller’s ESB, pair well with turkey thanks to their hefty dose of hoppy bitterness.
Strong ales, such as Fuller’s ESB, pair well with turkey thanks to their hefty dose of hoppy bitterness.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Canada