‘Queen Bee’ earns buzz
More recently, he relocated to Los Angeles, and this season, Slimane got the coveted job of taking over the creative reigns at St. Laurent. The fashion world waited with baited breath. Unfortunately, the collection of teeny tailored pieces, billowing blouses and rock star leathers and suedes, with many of the looks topped off with big, floppy hats, seemed more geared to Woodstock than Rue St. Honore — or Bloor St. for that matter. I appreciated the vibe, but maybe that’s the old hippie in me. Most felt Slimane wasn’t modern or edgy enough. But I have faith in this designer. He just needs to find his YSL groove. Then there was Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen. She is a mega talent who can do no wrong. Fashion diehards lapped up her “Queen Bee” collection, for its brilliant tailoring, imaginative craftsmanship, and pure artistry. Wasp waistlines, jackets with honey-comb motifs, and black patent “beekeeper” bonnets impressed this sometimes snooty crowd, who are looking to be both charmed and challenged. And Raf Simmons, in his first ready-to-wear offering for Dior, was applauded for his clean, minimalist lines that still manage to celebrate the heritage of the illustrious house. The shows I did have the pleasure of seeing in person really delivered. Chanel kept it light and fresh. But then again, Karl Lagerfeld, the house’s fearless leader, is all about modernity. He erected 13 huge wind turbines inside the Grand Palais, on a runway decked out with solar panels. I assumed we were going to witness a collection that made an environmental statement. But instead, Lagerfeld merely played with the grid patterns in his beautiful boucles, and gave a nod to nature with colourful chiffon appliquéd pinwheels and leaves on transparent black dresses, gowns, and a show-stopping wide-pant ensemble. The pièce de résistance of the collection were the accessories, from chunky platform sandals to big hats with wide, clear plastic brims, and playful bags, including one standout that looked like it was made of a hula hoop. Front row guest Jennifer Lopez, decked out in white lace, with her 4-year-old daughter Emme in tow, was delighted by all the whimsy in this feminine offering. Over at Valentino, the message was about “composed yet sensual elegance,” a kind of mantra for Valentino designers Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri. The duo have stayed true to the heritage of the house over their past few seasons at the creative helm, and this time they served up a strong yet quiet vision of, as they termed it, “memory without nostalgia.” Familiar classic shapes took on a modern feel with intricately beaded fabrications, printed lace, rich brocade, and broderie anglaise. A sense of demure restraint was articulated via high white collars and cuffs on long dresses, and even some bib collars came into play The designers credited their Roman roots for inspiration, citing the city’s spirit of change, and its desire for reinvention.
And speaking of reinvention, change is the only constant for Marc Jacobs, who once again mastered an about-face and catapulted Louis Vuitton into the future with his use of clean lines and modern graphics. Besides the classic black-and-white story, there was lots of daffodil yellow and glimmering minuscule sequins which created a liquid shine effect on some of the garments. The shapes were all simple: long, mid-length and short dresses and pencil skirts, coats and boxy jackets, some featuring elbow-length sleeves, and several chic jumpsuits. Jacobs, inspired by Daniel Buren, collaborated with the French conceptual artist on an astounding set: a mirrored backdrop with four banks of escalators carrying the models down onto the gleaming yellow-and-white checked runway.
I chatted with Paris fashion’s high priestess this week — the smokey-eyed editor Carine Roitfeld, formerly of Paris Vogue, who now fronts her own magazine, CR Fashion Book. I wanted her take on this fashion moment. “It’s a little minimalistic,” she lamented. “People are trying to be more cool. There’s not enough fantasy. Fashion should be more about self-expression.”
I was surprised to hear that in a city filled with great dressers. But then again, perhaps it was just her observation about what had gone down a lot of the Paris runways over the past week. “Fashion has to start being more . . . fashion,” said Roitfeld, pushing for even more creativity than we’d already seen. Jeanne Beker is a contributing editor to the Star and host of Fashion Television Channel. Email Jeanne@ctv.ca, follow @jeanne_beker and watch her on CTV, E! and Fashion Television Channel.