HAPPY AND HOPPY AT INDIE

There isn’t much that’s subtle about the beer at Indie Alehouse, and that’s the way owner Jason Fisher likes it.

“We won’t be making a Pilsner or a pale lager. There are plenty of other places to find that,” says Fisher, who has instead filled his taps with boldly hoppy brews, such as Instigator IPA and a double IPA whose name can’t be printed in a family newspaper.

That taste for hops — and naughty names — can be explained by the fact that Fisher has been influenced by some of the brash craft brewers in the U.S. “I think brewers here who aren’t influenced by breweries like Dogfish Head, Stone or Three Floyds are missing out,” says Fisher as he name drops three influential American breweries. Fisher, a former marketing executive, has been a home brewer since high school. (Full disclosure: Fisher and I attended the same school, though he was three grades ahead of me).

Most of the brews made by Fisher and his brewmaster, Jeff Boeders, are also fairly potent, including his 7.2-per-cent alcohol “breakfast porter.” The slightly boozy, chocolatey (and bitter) brew is a great match for the brewpub’s smoked chicken wings or pulled pork sandwich.

Even one of the few lower-alcohol brews on the menu isn’t exactly subtle, either. Fisher has a “Belgianstyle” sour ale on tap. At 3.5 per cent, it’s low in alcohol but high in mouthpuckering, citrusy tartness.

One concession to moderation, however, is in Fisher’s very traditional English-style “mild” ale, St. Crispin’s, which is available both on tap and on cask (a.k.a. real ale, or living ale). It’s chestnut brown, packed with nutty and chocolate aroma and flavour, and is just 3.5 per cent alcohol.

“With the other stuff we have, it would be irresponsible if we didn’t have something lower in alcohol on the menu too,” said Fisher.

Many of those brews are available for takeout in “growler” jugs at Fisher’s on-site retail store. Business, he says, is booming.

“We’ve sold out the store every single day so far.”