B.C. reds stand out among new releases

Upper crust or lower crumbs?

The return of Downton Abbey reminds us that wine also has coach class and more pedestrian levels.

Of course, wealth and high prices can be a precarious perch.

I’ve ranted a few times about the lack of top B.C. wines on our shelves, and along comes this week’s Vintages release with several Okanagan Valley stunners. And goodness, they sure are not cheap. In my bottle reviews I extol the virtues of the Quail’s Gate Chardonnay, which is reasonably priced.

But it’s the top B.C. reds that stood out, especially in a January full of new $15-$20 releases.

For connoisseurs then, I’d like to commend Burrowing Owl 2009 Merlot (#585737, $41.85, 91) with its vanilla, lilacs and plum richness; Burrowing Owl 2010 Pinot Noir (#556613, $41.95, 91-92) with its pumped up chocolate, mocha and cherry fruit; and Mission Hill 2008 Quatrain (#218636, $44.95, 91+) with its dense black cherry and lilacs prowess. Ontario has no shortage of superb flagship reds, which are rare on shelves due to the tiny quantities produced. The latest giant is Trius 2010 Grand Red ($55.20, winery only, 92), a merlot, cab franc and cab sauvignon blend with spicy violets, minty cassis, graphite and chocolate shavings complexity. Only 16 barrels were produced and if you enjoy the regular Trius wines, this will knock your tasting socks off. If you crave Ontario value wines, like I do, see my bottle reviews of Flat Rock Chardonnay and Pondview 2010 Cabernet/Merlot, two wines that taste like class in a glass and won’t make you take out a second mortgage.

My two final favourites of this release are the Washington State red, Columbia Crest H3 Merlot, which has tasting affinities to B.C. reds in the brightness of fruit flavours; and my top-rated wine of the entire release, Chain of Ponds The Ledge 2008 Shiraz from Down Under, which is downright hedonistic in its layering of finessed aromas and flavours. OK, it’s $29.95, but tastes like $100.

Value is a relative thing, as you know, whether you live upstairs or downstairs.