Toronto Star

Atestament to love

Star secret tips for visiting India’s Taj Mahal

- TAMARA BALUJA SPECIAL TO THE STAR

AGRA, INDIA— It’s on the bucket list of probably every tourist to India. The symbol of everlastin­g love. One of the wonders of the world.

I figured I would be underwhelm­ed with the Taj Mahal. But the beauty of the iconic building is truly stunning; it lives up to the hype.

The white marble mausoleum was built in the 17th century by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan for beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal. Legend has it that, in his senior years at nearby Agra Fort, the king used to say his prayers in the direction of Mecca and then turn 180 degrees to gaze at the Taj Mahal and reminisce about his love.

Here’s the Star’s guide on how to best visit this world wonder:

WHEN TO GO

The weather is cooler November through January, so it’s understand­ably the height of the tourist season. But if you can deal with the insane summer heat (the temperatur­e can hit 50C in May) the crowds tend to melt away. Note: The Taj is closed on Friday to accommodat­e practising Muslims who wish to pray.

HOW MUCH IT SHOULD COST

There are no plaques to explain the history of the Taj Mahal, so consider hiring a tour guide and insist on seeing the guide’s Government of India official certificat­ion.

A full-day tour, including the Taj Mahal and the other major sites of Agra Fort and Fatehpur Sikri, should cost no more than Rs. 2,000 (about $36) plus the cost of admission. Ticket prices vary, but foreign adults can expect to pay about $13.50 in total for daytime admission.

Your Taj ticket also entitles you to a small discount at the other attraction­s, so keep it on hand and show it when paying to enter the others.

HOW TO GET THERE

You’re likely arriving from Delhi, the closest major city to Agra. There are various tour operators that run day trips and overnight trips to Agra, but unless you enjoy being shepherded around, take the Shatabdi Express or the Taj Express.

You’ll get street cred with other tourists and locals by saying you took the Indian Railway. The train is the most reliable and fastest way to get to Agra. Trains leave in the early morning from Delhi, arrive in Agra roughly two hours later, and return late in the evening.

It is crucial for foreigners — especially female travellers — to buy an AC 3-tier ticket. That is the equivalent of a first-class ticket; it includes a full dinner. You can do all the major sites in Agra in one day, but consider an overnight trip that allows a more relaxing pace.

WHAT TIME TO VISIT

It comes down to priorities. It’s probably worth your time to avoid the crowds and visit the Taj Mahal at sunrise. However, if you’re not a morning person, time your visit for sunset and stay as long as you can, especially if it’s near the full moon.

WHAT TO AVOID

A 30-minute night-viewing ticket of the monument is available five days every month. Instead, most tour guides recommend booking a room at one of several hotels with a view of the Taj Mahal all night long.

WHERE TO SHOOT

As soon as you enter the gates, several men claiming to have 300plus angles to shoot the building — and you — will appear at your sides. Disregard them unless you somehow came without a camera.

Instead, follow the lead of all the photograph­ers; the best shot with you in the picture will likely be from one of the benches right at the entrance of the south gate. Or frame your shot through the trees in the small park area to the right as you look at the Taj.

Sunset and sunrise are the most beautiful times of the day, when the natural colours cast a warm glow on the white marble and the building is stunning enough to do most of the work for you. But you can also get a perfect reflection of the Taj Mahal in the pool if you set your camera on the ground and line it up with the base of the building. For a more unusual shot, ask your tour guide to take you to the back of the Taj, on the far shore of the banks of Yamuna or the Moonlight garden. (Unfortunat­ely, the latter was closed the day I visited).

INSIDER INFO

When the entrance gates open at dawn, ignore the urge to stand in awe of the monument and instead run inside the cenotaph. You’ll hear “the sound of infinity” — the vibration created by air moving through the huge ventilated dome.

 ?? DREAMSTIME ?? Visiting the Taj Mahal in summer can make for a brutally hot experience, but you’ll have a lot more room to move about.
DREAMSTIME Visiting the Taj Mahal in summer can make for a brutally hot experience, but you’ll have a lot more room to move about.
 ?? DREAMSTIME ?? Guides recommend booking a room at one of several hotels with a view of the Taj Mahal all night long. Below, one of the monument’s marble walls.
DREAMSTIME Guides recommend booking a room at one of several hotels with a view of the Taj Mahal all night long. Below, one of the monument’s marble walls.
 ?? TAMARA BALUJA ??
TAMARA BALUJA

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