Strutting to an edgy finish
From dark school style to spikes, Lacerda, Taddeo and Pavoni get serious
LACERDA
Toronto-based designer Vinícius Lacerda took his fall collection back to school — to the hallowed halls of education, where sometimes darkness lurks. These mean girls wear a uniform of black pleather and vinyl kilts, pretty print shirts and, at least in one case, a “lemon tart yellow” acrylic fuzzy sweater.
Born in Sao Paulo, Brazil, the young designer graduated from the Toronto’s Academy of Design in 2009 and has worked here for Line Knitwear.
In a brief video that introduced his collection, Lacerda said he has a keen interest in vintage Vogue magazines. For fall, he underscored his inclination to start from a solid structure — which allows him to then play with print and colour. He designs for a woman willing to take risks, he said.
The collection was presented almost exclusively in black vinyl and neoprene. Particularly striking was an oversized black vinyl men’s shirt worn as a dress and highrise black pleather sweatpants that were ribbed at the ankle. Skirt lengths were uniformly short, but one long pleated skirt was paired with an elongated burgundy sweater slit up the sides.
He closed his show with a neoprene suit — with black pants and a baseball jacket. TRAVIS TADDEO The Travis Taddeo collection presented Friday employed a dark black backdrop, which had the effect of drawing the eye directly to his furs. Sponsored by NAFA (North American Fur Association) Taddeo’s pelts included coyote, raccoon and beaver — as well as recycled fox.
In an interview following the presentation of his fall 2013 collection, Taddeo insisted he did not have issues with incorporating fur into his show, insisting the material is “recyclable and renewable.”
To showcase the fur, Taddeo presented his men’s and women’s collection in black silk jersey, lightweight silk chiffon and Japanese leather. The collection had an edge even when it was basic as in a long jersey sheath or a pair of second-skin black leather jeans.
A standout black jacket was densely encrusted with jet crystals.
The designer, who graduated from Montreal’s LaSalle College in 2007, creates collections that require a confident wearer.
The Taddeo furs were bold and appeared in unexpected shapes — a kneelength sweater or a man’s shoulder cape. “If young people are going to wear fur,
they don’t want to wear their grandmother’s coat,” said Taddeo.
PAVONI
Designers Mike Derderian and Gianni Falcone built a collection based on romance. From flamboyant tulle and jewelled ball gowns to tiny lace minidresses, the collection worked with a variety of silhouettes.
The luxury brand was established in 2011based on traditional elegance with a contemporary edge — a collection created with celebrity red carpet in mind.
The Pavoni label (Italian for peacock) has become known for its extravagantly embellished evening gowns and sexy cocktail dresses. This collection was no different.
The gowns were dense with ruching, dramatic draping and intricate beading. Taffeta dresses featured snuff lace at the torso, then swelled to the floor with layers of tulle.
Often the Pavoni lace was set on a nude background. To sharpen the edge of one lace dress, the waist and shoulders featured dangerous spikes. Another super short dress was as stiff as steel — a sexy but impenetrable armour.