Niagara wine is tops among 100-plus new LCBO releases

Welcome once more to the Saturday wine sweepstakes where a new jungle of Vintages wines hits shelves, sending oenophiles scurrying in all directions to scoop up the best.

A few words on my five best-value performers, culled from the 100plus new wines, that are depicted with full reviews here.

Aussie semillons are an enigma. Here is a white capable of incredible longevity, even without oak stylings. The Loan Wines Unwooded Semillon tastes like it saw oak (butter, smoke notes), but it did not. I have had Hunter Valley semillons that were still gorgeous 15 years after release. But then, I have had sweet Oz rieslings still drinkable going back to the 1950s. Who knew?

If you enjoy slightly aromatic whites, the Roulette Blanc fourgrape variety blend is enticingly delicious and exotic.

For those jaded with standard pinot gris or chardonnay, this is a breath of fresh air.

The Langa Garnacha (a.k.a. grenache), our best buy red of the 100 new wines, has taste signatures of a very fine Rioja tempranillo. However, it’s from Calatayud, a relatively unknown wine region, which no doubt helps in keeping its price so ridiculously reasonable. Smoke and Gamble Cab/Merlot is from a virtually unknown Lake Erie North Shore region winery near Port Dover. The winery also does appassimento-style reds, from grapes allowed to dry and shrink before being crushed. So far, the winery is not open to the public. My choice to feature the Eos Estate Petit Sirah is because of its intense minty chocolate character. It really is reminiscent of eating one of those wafer-thin chocolate covered mints, After Eights. Fortunately, there are other delicious elements at play in the red as well. And for those who demand to know what wine garnered my highest score of all these new Vintages offerings, no matter what the price, that “wow” wine hails from Niagara. Yes, Hidden Bench has achieved crowning glory with their 2009 Terroir Caché (#505610, $32.95, 93+), a Meritage-style blend of sumptuously ripe red grapes. Rich cassis, coconut, mint and black cherry aromas spill into silky textured blackcurrants, vanilla, summer plums and mocha layers. This is so good you have to restrain yourself from licking the glass afterward. Happy wine hunting! stimmell@sympatico.ca