Eastern roots
Any kitchen neophyte can steam a head of broccoli. Fewer know how to tackle a long-podded cowpea. So we asked Chris Jang, chef at A-OK Foods, to decode eight common East Asian veggies—and tell us what the hell to do with them.
1. CHINESE LONG BEANS
What is it? A bean that can grow to lengths of three feet, these guys are usually harvested when they hit half a foot.
Aliases Yard-long bean, longpodded cowpea, snake bean.
Tasting notes Similar to a regular green bean, with hints of asparagus.
Pro tip Trim off the stems, boil briefly, then add to a pork stir-fry with black bean sauce or garlic.
2. FLOWERING CHINESE CHIVES
What is it? A more mature version of Chinese chives, where flower buds start to appear.
Aliases Gau choi, Chinese leek, garlic chives.
Tasting notes Like spicy garlic. Pro tip The stronger garlic taste works well when flavouring meats and seafood in a stir-fry. Cut off any woody parts of the stem before cooking.
3. BITTER MELON
What is it? A zucchini-sized pale-green melon covered in wrinkles and warts. Aliases Bitter gourd, foo gwa.
Tasting notes Unsurprisingly, it’s bitter, with grassy flavours and a watery crunch.
Pro tip Cut in half lengthwise and scoop out the seeds. Boil in hot water to mellow out the bitterness, then pair with black bean sauce.
4. GAI LAN
What is it? A dark, leafy green with thick stems, flat leaves, and the occasional white or yellow flower. Aliases Chinese broccoli.
Tasting notes Crunchy and tough, with sweet leaves and bitter stems. They’re similar to rapini, but with a much stronger taste.
Pro tip Chop off any dried ends, add to boiling water to soften, then wash under ice-cold water to maintain crispness. Cook over high heat with ginger and garlic and serve with oyster sauce.
5. SNOW PEA SHOOTS
What is it? Young, leafy sprouts of the snow pea plant. Aliases Dau miu.
Tasting notes Sweet, refreshing, tender, and delicate.
Pro tip Trim off the stems and blanch briefly before stir-frying with a light dressing of cornstarch, soy sauce, garlic, ginger, and peanut oil.
6. WOOD EAR MUSHROOMS
What is it? An earshaped fungus that grows on dead wood (it’s not the most clever name).
Aliases Black fungus, tree ear, cloud ear fungus.
Tasting notes A wet crunch, with a slight earthy quality, though these shrooms will pick up the flavour of whatever they’re cooked with.
Pro tip Rehydrate them in cold water, then blanch in boiling water. Add to soups, like hot and sour, for texture.
7. WINGED BEANS
What is it? A protein-rich green bean with frayed edges. They’ve been called a “one-species supermarket,” because the entire plant—roots, seeds, leaves, stems—is edible. Aliases Four-angled bean.
Tasting notes Sweet, crunchy, and a bit grassy.
Pro tip Cut off the ends of the bean, then toss in boiling water for a minute before rinsing in cold water. Add to a Thai-style salad with shrimp and shredded coconut.
8. CHINESE CELERY
What is it? Similar to North American celery, but the stalks are much thinner. It’s also eaten cooked rather than raw. Aliases Oriental celery.
Tasting notes More intense and aromatic than regular celery.
Pro tip Trim off thestem and leaf, then add to a Thai seafood salad with coriander, chilies, and palm sugar.