FRESH BITES
Return of fresh fiddleheads a sure sign of spring,
Move over broccoli, it’s fiddle head season!
These tightly coiled fronds, wrapped in copper-coloured kerchiefs that glint in the sun, are a sure sign of spring. Leave them a day or two and they’ll unfurl into an elegant fern any shade garden would love if they weren’t so invasive.
Nick Secord, president of NorCliff Farms Inc., has transplanted more than 300,000 ostrich ferns ( Matteuccia Struthiopteris) in the damp woods surrounding his palatial home outside Port Colborne, on Lake Erie.
The farm, fed by artificial ponds, is a showcase for chefs and prospective buyers who come to see how the wild plants grow and perhaps harvest a few pounds to take home.
It’s a smart business move, since much of Secord’s hand-picked crop is accessible only by canoe and requires crawling through the bush on your knees.
Close to 500 pickers fan out over low-lying areas of the Ottawa Valley, New Brunswick and Quebec, harvesting up to 40,000 pounds (about 18,000 kilograms) of dark green fiddleheads on a good day. Their catch is trucked to Norcliff’s modern plant northeast of Montreal to be cleaned, washed and graded.
Harvesting in different areas gives Secord a six-week season for his precious crop, available in supermarkets across North America. Our late spring has delayed the season, but on a visit last week, we could clearly see emerald green ferns emerging from the stumps of last year’s plants. Look for fresh fiddleheads in Toronto stores next week.
NUTRITION PLUS
Canada’s fiddlehead expert, Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada scientist Dr. John DeLong, says this wild green vegetable contains omega-3 fatty acids and twice the disease-fighting antioxidants of blueberries. Fiddleheads are also a good source of dietary fibre and contain iron, Vitamin A and Vitamin C, says DeLong, based in Kentville, N.S.
NAMING RIGHTS
Long enjoyed by First Nations people and Maritimers, fiddleheads resemble the curved neck of a violin, or fiddle. They’re also native to parts of B.C., Ontario and Quebec.
TASTE
I find fiddleheads have a strong spinach taste. Secord likens them to asparagus or broccoli when boiled and to more bitter spinach or rapini when steamed. Others taste a hint of artichoke.
PREP
Serve cooked fiddleheads hot with a drizzle of melted butter or olive oil and a squeeze of lemon.
For brunch, add to a frittata, omelette or quiche, or make delicious soup.
Try fiddlehead salad with diced tomatoes and a lemon/garlic vinaigrette.
Power up your smoothie with the fruity recipe from NorCliff’s website.
To freeze, clean fiddleheads and blanch for two minutes in boiling water. Plunge into cold water to stop cooking. Drain and pack in freezer containers or bags for up to one year. Cook from frozen.
HEALTH ALERT
Like morels and other wild foods, fiddleheads should never be eaten raw. Wash them well and cook them properly to prevent possible stomach upset. Health Canada recommends boiling them 15 minutes or steaming 10 to 12 minutes before eating. Secord cooks his 8 to 10 minutes, until tender.
KNOW YOUR FERNS
Don’t be fooled by the many types of ferns. The cinnamon fern, with its pale white or creamy fuzz, could make you sick. DeLong recommends picking ostrich fern tops when they’re tightly-curled and under 10 to 12 cm (5 to 6 inches) high. Don’t be greedy — pick three heads from each plant so there will be plenty for next year.
SHAKE ’EM!
Cleaning foraged fiddleheads is a pain. The easiest way to remove the papery husk is to place dry fiddleheads in a sieve or in an apron outdoors and give them a good shake. Pick off the rest by hand and trim the woody stem before washing under cold water. Norcliff uses an elaborate system of fans and sprays to ensure they’re sold ready to cook.