Wagner family makes a wave with latest Vintages release

Dozens of hidden gems accompany impressive stock from Napa Valley dynasty

The long-awaited release of a handful of stunning Wagner family wines is part of the flood tide of Vintages wines hitting shelves today.

The Wagner family and their relations have wine roots in the Napa Valley going back150 years and spanning eight generations of frontier spirit.

The modern chapter began with the founding of Caymus Vineyards in1972 by Charlie Wagner and Lorna Belle Glos and their son, Chuck.

Their decision to produce wine rather than sell their grapes to other wineries paid off quickly, when the 1973 Cabernet Sauvignon attracted critical praise and their 1975 Special Selection of the best barrels made headlines.

Of course, whites now are also a powerful component of the Wagner stable.

Chuck’s son Charlie (named after his grandpa) heads up the winemaking of Conundrum 2013 (#694653, $24.95, 89+), which is, as always, an unorthodox assemblage of unlikely grapes. I find this latest vintage to be almost too sweet with its floral clover blossoms, lavender and apples notes.

Also included in Charlie’s quiver are two outstanding chards, Mer Soleil Reserve 2013 Chardonnay (#958975, $34.95, 92) with ripe guava, buttered bread and floral yellow apple poise and Mer Soleil Silver Unoaked 2012 Chardonnay (#220343, $29.95, 91+) with its delightful tangerine, melon, vanilla, quince and yellow apple crispness.

In reds, there’s the 40th Anniversary 2012 Cab (#222877, $68.95, 91), a lush gush of black fruits but still a bit fierce with new tannins. More amazing are the Pinot Noirs, made by Chuck’s second son, Joseph. Featured in this release are three Belle Glos Pinots: Clark & Telephone, the Dairyman and Las Alturas.

The top one, Belle Glos Las Alturas 2013 Pinot Noir (#212076, $44.95, 93+) is anything but subtle. In fact, it is huge and rich with layered mocha, smoky cherry, anise, violets and mol- ten chocolate intensity.

Turning to the overall release, we were pleased to find dozens of hidden gems. Five are, of course, featured with my bottle image reviews. Two are Ontario discoveries, with the Pelham Riesling perfect for first sips on the front porch and the 13th Street Merlot a great companion for barbecue charred meats as spring finally warms up.

And sticking with the local theme, although it is still early for the blushing rosés of summer, one was so good I must sing its praises. Flat Rock Pink Twisted 2014 Rosé (#39974, $16.95, 90) is absolutely delicious and refreshing, with cherry strawberries, red apple and lime notes in a bright and tangy style. This rose is an intriguing blend of Syrah and Pinot Noir grapes.

Happy wine hunting! stimmell@sympatico.ca

The Conundrum 2013 is an unorthodox assemblage of unlikely grapes. I find this latest vintage to be almost too sweet