It’s a sure sign of spring — Ontario asparagus has arrived,
Spring must finally be here now that the Ontario-grown succulent spears are hitting the shelves
If there is one foodie sign of spring in Ontario, it is surely glorious green asparagus.
Face it — we all produce “asparagus pee” thanks to sulphurous amino acids that are released when we digest this revered vegetable. Only some of us — reports range from a quarter to half the population — have a special gene that lets us smell it.
“When I talk to people about this, just about everyone says they can smell it,” admits Bernie Solymar, executive director of the Asparagus Farmers of Ontario.
Poll your friends, by all means, but get a move on it because we can only buy homegrown asparagus in May and June.
Ontario’s 80 growers harvest about 15 million pounds (6.8 million kilos) a year on 3,000 acres mainly in Norfolk County and Chatham-Kent. We grow a small amount of purple asparagus for the farmgate market, but no white asparagus.
Most of our asparagus is sold fresh in Ontario, Quebec, the Maritimes and the northeastern United States. About 10 to 15 per cent is destined for canning and freezing, mainly in Michigan.
Barrie’s Asparagus Farmin North Dumfries is pickling asparagus and working it into tomato sauce, salsa, crackers, relish and even flour.
There’s a Norfolk County Asparagus Trail.
“Consumers want local foods and they want local asparagus,” says Solymar, adding that production is increasing.
There’s a push right now to convince asparagus lovers that jumbo spears are perfect for grilling season.
“There’s a misconception that thinner spears are the tender spears,” says Solymar, “but the reality is that the thicker spears are more tender because there’s more ‘meat’ to them.”
Asparagus With Miso Butter and/or Tahini Yogurt
Star Tested Boil, steam, roast or griddle your asparagus, but remember that there are six sizes of spears so cooking time will vary significantly. I love griddling in a ridged skillet over medium-high heat.
This memorable miso butter is adapted from Feast: Generous Vegetarian Meals for Any Eater and Every Appetite by Sarah Copeland. The tahini-yogurt sauce is adapted from Vegetable Literacy by Deborah Madison. 1 bunch asparagus (about 1 lb/450 g), trimmed Extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt + freshly ground black pepper Miso Butter: 1/4 cup (60 mL) unsalted butter, at room temperature 2 tbsp (30 mL) yellow or white miso 2 tsp (10 mL) sambal oelek (fresh chili sauce) or Sriracha hot sauce Tahini-Yogurt Sauce: 1/2 cup (125 mL) plain yogurt 3 tbsp (45 mL) tahini 1 large clove garlic, minced 1/4 tsp (1 mL) kosher salt Spread asparagus in single layer on baking sheet so spears don’t touch. Drizzle with oil. Season with salt and pepper. Roast in preheated 400 F (200 C) oven until tender-crisp, about 12 to 15 minutes, depending on thickness, turning with tongs halfway through cooking.
For miso butter, in small bowl, mash butter and miso with fork. Stir in sambal oelek or Sriracha until smooth.
For tahini-yogurt sauce, in medium bowl, stir yogurt, tahini, garlic and salt until smooth.
Arrange asparagus on platter. Pass miso butter and tahini-yogurt sauce separately.
Makes 4 servings.
Penne With Asparagus + Goat Cheese
Star Tested This pasta with a no-cook sauce is adapted from Healthy Pasta: The Sexy, Skinny, and Smart Way to Eat Your Favorite Food by Joseph Bastianich and Tanya Bastianich Manuali. 1 large bunch asparagus (about 1 lb/450 g), trimmed, cut in 1-inch (2.5-cm) pieces 2 tsp + 2 tbsp (10 mL + 30 mL) extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt + freshly ground black pepper Finely grated zest of 1 lemon Juice of 1/2 lemon 1/2 cup (125 mL) chopped fresh
chives 5 oz (140 g) fresh goat cheese 1 lb (450 mL) dried penne rigate 1/2 cup (125 mL) finely grated Grana Padano or parmesan cheese Preheat oven to 450 F (230 C) with baking sheet on lower rack.
In large serving bowl, toss asparagus with 2 tsp (10 mL) oil. Season with salt and pepper. Scatter on preheated baking sheet. Roast until tender and to desired doneness, about 8 minutes, depending on thickness.
Clean serving bowl. Warm with hot water. Dump water out. Add remaining 2 tbsp (30 mL) oil, lemon zest, lemon juice and chives. Season with salt and pepper. Crumble in goat cheese.
Bring large pot salted water to boil over high heat. Add penne. Cook as per package instructions until al dente. Reserve 1 cup (250 mL) pasta water. Drain pasta and add to serving bowl, along with roasted asparagus, 1/2 cup (125 mL) reserved pasta water and Grana Padano or parmesan. Toss quickly and thoroughly to make creamy sauce. Add more pasta water, a tablespoon at a time, if pasta seems dry; toss again. Serve immediately. Makes 4 to 6 servings.
Asparagus + Potato Salad With Creamy Avocado Dressing
Star Tested A fresh take on potato salad, adapted from The Oh She Glows Cookbook: Vegan Recipes to Glow from the Inside Out by Oakville blogger Angela Liddon. 2 lb (900 g) yellow-fleshed potatoes, scrubbed, chopped in 1/2-inch (1-cm) cubes (about 5 cups/1/25 mL) Extra-virgin olive oil Fine sea salt + freshly ground black pepper 1 large bunch asparagus (about 1 lb/450 g), trimmed, cut in 1-inch (2.5-cm) pieces 1/2 cup (125 mL) chopped green
onions Dressing: 1/2 cup (125 mL) avocado (about 1 medium) 1/4 cup (60 mL) water 2 tbsp (30 mL) minced fresh dill 4 tsp (20 mL) fresh lemon juice 1 green onion, trimmed, chopped 1/4 tsp (1 mL) fine sea salt Freshly ground black pepper Spread potatoes on parchment-lined baking sheet. Drizzle with oil. Season with salt and pepper.
Spread asparagus on second parchment-lined baking sheet. Drizzle with oil. Season with salt and pepper.
Roast potatoes in preheated 425 F (220 C) oven 15 minutes. Flip. Roast until golden and fork-tender, about 20 minutes. Remove from oven.
Add tray of asparagus to oven. Roast to desired doneness ( just tender or slightly charred), about 10 to 15 minutes, depending on thickness.
In large mixing bowl, combine potatoes, asparagus and green onions.
Meanwhile, for dressing, in mini food processor, combine avocado, water, dill, lemon juice, green onion, salt and pepper to taste. Process until smooth.
Add some or all the dressing to bowl with potatoes and asparagus, to taste, stirring to combine. Taste; season with salt and pepper if desired. Serve immediately. Refrigerate leftovers in airtight container several days.
Makes 4 servings.
Chicken, Asparagus + Edamame Salad With Herb Dressing
Star Tested This elegant (and colourful) lunch salad is adapted from A Bird in the Hand: Chicken Recipes for Every Day and Every Mood by London-based food writer Diana Henry.
White balsamic keeps the dressing a pristine colour, but if you only have regular (dark) balsamic, go ahead and use it.
Poach the chicken in chicken stock for extra flavour.
Look for watermelon radishes or other types. Herb Dressing: 2 tbsp (30 mL) white balsamic
vinegar 1/2 tsp (2 mL) Dijon mustard 1/2 cup (125 mL) extra-virgin olive oil 1/4 cup (60 mL) whipping cream 2 tsp (10 mL) each: finely chopped mint, finely chopped dill Kosher salt + freshly ground black pepper Salad: 4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts 16 large asparagus spears, trimmed, halved lengthwise
2 cups (500 mL) cooked, shelled
edamame
4 radishes, very thinly sliced For dressing, in medium bowl, whisk vinegar and mustard. Whisk in oil, cream, mint and dill. Season with salt and pepper to taste; whisk again.
For salad, fill shallow, wide sauté pan or saucepan with water. Bring to boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium to maintain gentle simmer. Add chicken in single layer. Poach until cooked through but still moist, about 12 to 13 minutes.
Transfer chicken to cutting board. Cut each breast diagonally into about 4 thick slices. Serve warm or room temperature.
Return pan of water to boil. Add asparagus. Cook until crisp-tender, about 3 minutes, depending on thickness. Drain; rinse under cold, running water to stop cooking and maintain bright colour.
To assemble, arrange equal portions of edamame, radish, asparagus and chicken as you like on each of 4 large plates.
Drizzle each salad with dressing to taste. Pass extra dressing.
Makes 4 servings. jbain@thestar.ca