Toronto Star

No, dear reader, there aren’t any blueberrie­s in the bottle

Wine critics use fruit and other flavours as descriptor­s in order to help readers pick wines they like

- GORD STIMMELL WINE CRITIC

When I first turned my part-time hobby horse of wine loving into a full-time rodeo, we lived in a strange world of wine descriptio­ns.

Most of the critical verbiage was derived from British wine wits who eschewed talking about specific fruit and loved words such as “shy” and “hollow” and “closed.”

I began using fruit and actual taste suggestion­s after burrowing through 30 Chardonnay­s, made virtually identicall­y, and grasping at words to distinguis­h each from the other.

One woman actually asked me if a merlot actually contained blueberrie­s when I wrote that as a suggestion.

No, dear readers, the fruit or nuts or limestone are hints the wine gives off. However blueberry is a classic signal a wine could be merlot.

I found readers also sensed various fruit or veggie or natural aromas and flavours, and could identify with what they liked and so know the wine I was reviewing may appeal to them.

I was chatting with one of my readers recently, and she confessed she hates the taste of licorice as well as bell pepper and eucalyptus so when she sees these de- scriptors in my review she makes sure to avoid the wine.

My personal bias makes me adore a red wine with cassis (black currants) overtones or graphite (pencil shavings) and in whites, butter and coconut.

Of course such descriptor­s usually mean loads of new oak, so the wines I love tend to be too expensive for humble moi to afford. There is no justice!

But if I encounter these traits in in- expensive wines, depending on added other seductive factors, then I am in heaven.

Thank goodness most of the wine critic fraternity has also boarded the taste bandwagon I ride when doing reviews.

As far as closed, or dumb, or shy goes, I still use such terms, but only when tasting with older judges.

One of these days I might share with readers what that trio of words and a vanished generation of terms means, some retro is amazingly useful.

Our theme today is Italian wines and a rosé newly arrived at Vintages. stimmell@sympatico.ca

As far as closed, or dumb, or shy goes, I still use such terms, but only when tasting with older judges

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