Porto pleasures

A guide to city’s famous wine and culinary treasures

The full name of Portugal’s second-largest city is “the ancient, very noble, always loyal, and unvanquished city of Porto.”

That’s quite a title to live up to but Porto, with its historical bridges, globally famous port wines, churches, and Roman walls, does its best.

Designated a UNESCO World Heritage site, Porto’s streets are lined with outdoor cafés and the city is divided by the Douro River, which means River of Gold, named for the golden grapes that grow on the slopes of the Douro valley.

The southern banks are dotted with wine houses where Port producers keep their wares, and Port sailing boats pepper the harbour.

You can also take a ride in a century-old tram car and traverse the city’s medieval alleys — the earliest in the Iberian Peninsula.

Here, we take you on a walking culinary tour of Porto and explain the mysteries of Port wine.

1. Vila Nova de Gaia The south bank of the Douro River is where Port wine producers keep their lodges.

There are over 60 of them along the waterside promenade and up the steep cobblestone alleys. Drop by your favourite wine house for a tour and a tasting. Most do not require prior reservations. 2. Filha da Mae Preta The Cais de Ribeira district is the historical centre of Porto and a designated World Heritage Site. Lively restaurants line the arcades, and on Sundays, market stalls sell colourful linens, cork accessories and handicrafts. Take in the atmosphere while enjoying an octopus fillet with a Super Bock beer on the terrace. 3. Taberno do Largo Some say they serve the best Port tonic in all of Porto. This refreshing cocktail is made with white Port, fresh mint and a slice of orange. While you are here, try the flaming sausage — assa chorica, served on a special dish that allows your server to set it aflame at your table for a smoky, crispy skin. 4. Taberno Sto Antonio Their home cooked pataniscas de bacalhau (fried codfish cakes) will make you wish your grandmother were Portuguese. Order takeout, and enjoy it under the shade of a 200year old Gingko tree at the nearby Jardim das Virtudes, a terraced garden prized for its panoramic view of the city. 5. Leitaria da Quinta do Paco Known for chantilly cream-filled éclairs that have been the locals’ favourite since the 1920s. In addition to classic chocolate, they have passion fruit, lemon, strawberries, and other seasonal flavours. There is a savoury version too. It’s called the Snéclair, and it’s stuffed with salmon, tuna, crab, Stilton cheese, avocado, mango and tomatoes. 6. Café Guarany Opened in 1933, this historical café is known as the musicians’ coffee shop. Two “Lords of Amazonia” paintings by Graca Morais allude to Brazil as the world’s foremost coffee producer. Order a cimbalino if you want an espresso, or café de saco for brewed. 7. Loja dos Pastéis de Chaves End the walking tour with a pastry of Chaves, a warm and savoury minced meat tart with incredible layers of light puff pastry. If you are in the mood for more food, head over to the nearby Bolhao Market, where you will find freshly baked goods, cheeses and produce. Leslie Yip is a Toronto-based multimedia lifestyle journalist. Follow her on Twitter and Instagram @leslieyip0911

LESLIE YIP PHOTOS FOR THE TORONTO STAR Before the railway and subsequent roadworks were built, young Port wines were transported by wooden barges called rabelos.

Tinta Roriz is one of the major varietals for making Port wine. It is known as Tempranillo in neighbouring Spain, and is used for full-bodied Rioja wine.

The view from Taberno Sto Antonio, where codfish cakes are served.

Chantilly cream-filled éclairs from Leitaria da Quinta do Paco.

Port tonic, with mint and orange, is served at Taberno do Largo.