Cooking up some star power
Harbord Room chef Cory Vitiello on the rise within city’s glamour set
It’s an ever-diminishing threshold for the “celebrity chef” these days, what with anyone who’s been the third runner-up on Chopped being dubbed as such. Scarcer, perhaps, is the “personality chef.”
Earlier this week, in his new eatery taking shape on Adelaide St. W., a member of this subspecies sat giving the spiel on poulet. “Chicken has a bad rap because people’s idea of chicken is this boneless, skinless, bleached-white thing they know from the deli counter,” Cory Vitiello was saying.
Adisciple of the rotisserie — roast chicken is his own favoured meal — he’s conceived his new spot, Flock, with an abbreviated game plan: rustic-friendly chicken (whole, halved or quartered), paired with a choice of “House Caribbean Pepper Sauce” or “Chimichurri,” an eenie-meenie-miney-mo of sides and some delightfully designer salads to boot.
“To specialize in one thing, that’s where my heart is now,” adds the 35-year-old, confirming that he was inspired by the famous bird upgrades at places like Zuni Café in San Francisco.
His translation, here at the 16-seat Flock, which is open only during the day for now, is more “utilitarian,” but he’s just as transcendent talking about “dry-rubbing” and “air-chilling” his fare. “The thing about chicken, timing is of the essence.”
Timing is something that Vitiello’s had on his side for a while. Known for his flair at the Harbord Room (and another resto, THR & Co., down the same street), he crossed the Rubicon several years ago from mere chef to a chef-about-town. Tall, green-blue-eyed and amiable — he could be confused with being a long-lost Hemsworth brother — the Stratford Chefs School grad is the reigning Romeo of chefs.
“He has that unique combination of swagger and substance,” is how one longtime patron, PR queen Candice Best, sums up his persona. “Never grandiose, but quietly confident.”
At his restaurants, Best continues, “Cory never misses the opportunity to come over to a table and say hello and will quickly engage with a newcomer. It’s small-town hospitality meets big-city savoir-faire.”
And to be sure, many of his admirers will be following the natural host as he makes his fresh encroachments downtown. Having built up a sort of clubhouse fol-
“He has that unique combination of swagger and substance. Never grandiose, but quietly confident.” CANDICE BEST PR QUEEN
lowing, the Harbord Room, in particular, has long been a low-fuss magnet for visiting stars, such as Jake Gyllenhaal and local MVPs such as Sarah Polley. When Joe Mimran, the fashion impresario, wants to entertain the legendary Patti Smith while she’s in town, he brings her to the Harbord Room, as was the case in 2013. When Jimmy Choo, the luxury brand, is launching in Canada, they’ll snag Mr. Harbord Room to cater an offsite sit-down.
Even Mayor John Tory has gotten in on the action. A few years back he and his wife, Barbara Hackett, invited Vitiello to conjure up a dinner at their home as part of a fundraiser for Bloor Street Entertains.
In an age when “name-chefs” such as Tom Colicchio get animated on The Simpsons and Bobby Flay is a regular in Page Six, it perhaps shouldn’t surprise that this Brantford, Ont., cook has also turned into a must-have party guest when out of aprons. Inevitably, there has also been a source of intrigue where his romantic resumé is concerned. Having squired heiress and former politician Belinda Stronach for some time, Vitiello then dated ex- eTalk host Tanya Kim and is currently involved with Meghan Markle, one of the stars of the TV series Suits, shot in the city. Indeed, Vitiello confesses today that he’s been testing a fair bit of roast chicken on his actress-girlfriend.
If he wasn’t so swell, one might be tempted to hate him. But, nah, you can’t. Plus, as many of his diehards will confirm, his food speaks for his itself, both in terms of presentation and flavour.
Now, how about some chicken?