Enjoy Paris like the Parisians do
PARIS— Close your eyes and imagine Paris. A kiss on the iconic Pont Alexandre. A marriage proposal under La Tour Eiffel. A glass too many of that fine French wine.
Paris is full of gems, but, let’s face it, most tourists have no idea what they are, or how to find them. Who better to guide than Parisians themselves?
We spoke to four culturally savvy locals in hopes of getting you mixing where locals mix. They love their city and, with their help, you will too. Walk Saint-Germain-Des-Prés 6th arrondissement Atmosphere is the allure of this classic French district. “I can imagine how it was in the past, with artists and music in the streets,” says designer Marie Marot. This neighbourhood is popular for good reason. Claude Monet and Pierre-Auguste Renoir lived here. Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone De Beauvoir contemplated life at the café terraces. “It’s a bit touristic, but you can’t miss it if you come to Paris for the first time,” she says. Indulge Du Pain et Des Idées 34 Rue Yves Toudic, 10th arrondissement For anyone with a penchant for baked goods, this bakery is a must. Time and love go into the famed French goodies here. An average baguette takes an hour and a half to make. Baker Christophe Vasseur prepares his in seven hours. The ambience, too, with its traditional yet royalist decor, is delightful.
Go ahead, devour the perfect croissant. Then, if you can go for second round, which, when you’re in a place like this, of course you can, “you have to try the round loaf called Le Pain Des Amis,” says Marot.
Stay Les Bains Paris 7 rue du Bourg l’Abbé, 3rd arrondissement Paris’s first spa opened its doors here in 1885. In 1978, the space took a whole new shape. “It was one of the most legendary night clubs in Paris,” says Marot. Dubbed the Studio 54 of Paris, the likes of David Bowie, Mick Jagger and Madonna once danced the night away here. The building has transformed itself again. It now houses a hotel, restaurant, bar and club.
Look The Broken Arm 12 Rue Perrée, 3rd arrondissement People-watching is epic in Paris. There’s no better place than the Broken Arm in the Haut Marais district. The highly curated boutique and modern, yet charming café has become a magnet for the creative-minded. “Every single person who works in fashion in Paris is always sitting inside,” says Le Monde’s fashion journalist Alice Pfeiffer.
Drift La REcyclerie 83 boulevard Ornano, 18th arrondissement Paris isn’t immune to the hipster trend of reclaiming unused spaces. This former railway station on the Petite Ceinture now houses a flea market, restaurant, bar, café, vegetable garden and a farm. It offers daily DIY workshops, all through an ethical, ecological lens. Pfeiffer says it’s a great place to wander. “This is the temple of bobo,” says Pfeiffer, which means it’s equal parts bohemian and bourgeois. “It’s where actual Parisians go when they’re in the neighbourhood. Plus you’ll avoid ending up in one of those awful faux French places,” she says.
Read 0fr. 20 Rue Dupetit-Thouars, 3rd arrondissement Locals with an affinity for the arts love 0fr. for its wide selection of unique books and magazines, many of which you may not find elsewhere. This avant-garde store is much more than a bookshop. It acts as an independent publishing house, often collaborating with local artists. It also hosts exhibits and book launches served alongside delicious dinners. “Two great guys own the shop; they’re always taking on new projects,” says Gilles Uzan, editor-inchief of Intersection Magazine.
Eat Le Verre Volé 67 rue de Lancry, 10th arrondissement You may walk right past this inconspicuous wine shop while strolling the trendy Canal St-Martin area. Don’t let its unassuming storefront, small space and wonky tables fool you, this bistro is a neighbourhood go-to. In the mood for a crisp white? How about an incredible meal from an ever-changing, locally sourced menu? Do yourself a favour, leave the decision-making to your capable server. “It looks quite low-key but the food is amazing. Plus, I’m crazy about wine and there’s a huge selection,” says Uzan.
Shop Kokon To Zai 48 rue Tiquetonne, 2nd arrondissement “You have to have heard about this store to find it,” says Harmony Coryn, owner of fashion concept store Black is the New Black. She says it will appeal to people who love seeking out upcoming, forward-thinking designers as they import the very best from around the globe. “I am seduced by designs that can fit man or woman, but I have to admit, it’s a bit pricey,” she says.
Groove Pop-Up Du Label 14 rue Abel, 12th arrondissement If you’re into music, from rock ’n’ roll to electro, Coryn says Pop-Up Du Label is a great meeting place. There are two floors for concerts and shows, along with a cosy, reasonably priced restaurant. Fancy langoustine with a side of ska sounds? That’s possible. “It’s not central, but it’s an equidistant spot for those who haven’t decided where to go,” says Coryn. Follow Kristin Kent on Twitter and Instagram @kent_kristin.