Beach vacations and grilled sardines
The smell of the fish transports this Star reporter back to her trips to the Portuguese coast as a kid
In this weekly series, Star writers reminisce about a food that reminds them of summer. It’s that time of year, when the hot summer air in my west-end Toronto neighbourhood carries traces of the savoury scent of grilled sardines that transports me back to lazy summers on the Portuguese coast.
Growing up, my summer vacations were spent at the family home in Portugal, nestled on the sundrenched beach, Praia do Pedrogao, near Leiria, my parents’ hometown.
Long days were spent building sandcastles, frolicking in the water and playing beach volleyball until the sun slipped beneath the shimmering horizon.
A highlight of the day was spotting the brightly coloured fishing boat, bobbing on the waters of the Atlantic as it made its way ashore.
Children would toss aside balls, racquets and body boards so they could run to greet the fishermen, kicking up hot sand with each stride.
Even the adults would peel themselves off their blankets, pausing a card game or summer read, to help haul in the heavy fishnet, busting with its catch.
Sometimes I’d join the gaggle of curious onlookers, pointing in wonder at unusual-looking fish and jumping out of the way as tiny crabs slipped through the net before hurrying back to the water.
On other occasions I’d join the long line of helpers tugging at the net, slowly inching out of the ocean. Tanned fishermen worked beside women in string bikinis, men with beer bellies and children gleefully tripping over their feet.
I probably wasn’t of much help, but for a kid who was born and raised in downtown Toronto it was a fun thing to do with my cousins; plus, there was a reward for our efforts.
The fishermen would dole out free seafood to all who had assisted. They would take plastic bags and sand buckets — that’s what most children had with them — and plunge them into a flopping pile of silvery scales, scooping up what would inevitably become that night’s dinner.
Sardines were a summer staple, and so easy to cook. Just pre-salt them, grill and serve with a squirt of lemon and a drizzle of olive oil. For a small fish, they’re packed with delicious flavour, which explains why they’ve become a hit with foodies in Toronto, where trendy restaurants now serve them.
And they’re nutritious. According to Toronto-based registered dietitian Shauna Lindzon, sardines are high in heart-healthy omega 3 fats and protein, which help boost immunity. They’re also high in vitamin B12 and calcium, and are one of the food sources containing vitamin D, all of which are important in strengthening bones. Plus, she adds, they’re low in mercury: a big bonus for pregnant or breastfeeding women. Many of my memorable summertime family meals consisted of sitting around a table overflowing with food: a bowl of fresh vegetable salad, a tray of boiled potatoes and green vegetables, a basket of warm corn- bread and, of course, a big platter stacked high with grilled sardines.
We’d sit together as a family, enjoying a long leisurely meal, listening to the waves crashing ashore in the near distance as my grandmother regaled us with tales from her youth.
I still try to return whenever I can, but I no longer have the luxury of spending the entire summer there. Last August I was there with my husband and stepdaughter, Maria. To my surprise, she, too, loved watching the fishermen return to shore and stared wide-eyed at the bountiful variety of seafood caught in their nets.
There have been changes over the years, though. The net is no longer hauled in by hand — tractors do the work — and there are no more freebies, other than the tiny fish that slip through the net, sending kids scampering to retrieve them.
Although the fishermen still sell their catch on the beach for a fraction of the cost at the nearby market, neither I nor my husband has my mom’s knack at cleaning and gutting fish.
So we waited for Maria to fill her bucket with small fish that had escaped the net — the live ones she returned to the ocean — and then followed that distinct smell wafting through the salty air to a seaside restaurant where we devoured a plate of grilled sardines, watching the sunset.