Toronto Star

Port towns offer taste of Mediterran­ean life

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Nice, France Located on the French Riviera in the Côte d’Azur, the city of Nice seamlessly balances old-world grace with today’s urban comforts. Stroll (or jog, as many locals do) the Promenade des Anglias where grand 19th-century architectu­re lines the streets across from the pebbly shores of the Baie des Anges.

Meander through the old town, where the day’s market turns into seating for the bustling restaurant­s at night. Nice is known as a culinary town, you needn’t choose wisely.

We steer clear of the staples — Boccaccio or La Maison de Marie are two — and instead choose a vibrant patio, El Merkado, a tapas bar where locals break bread and sip not-so-classic cocktails.

After dinner, stroll the pedestrian­friendly Massena Square, where colourful statues on pedestals shine light on the breakdance­rs below.

Monte Carlo, Monaco I was expecting opulence in Monaco, but I wasn’t expecting it to ooze at every turn. The Principali­ty of Monaco is known for its glitz and glamour, along with its impressive selection private yachts. With sail masts taller than some buildings and countless angular speedboats, being here feels like I’ve magically leaped into a James Bond film. Star Breeze docks in the middle of it all.

Minutes away is the old town, which you can walk, but anyone with mobility issues may want to hire a motor coach, which the cruise line offers, as the cobbleston­e paths are quite hilly.

Winding your way through the tourist-packed alleyways (there is barely enough elbow room when a large ship is also in town), leads to the Prince’s Palace, where Princess Grace once lived and where her son, Prince Albert, who is the current ruler, lives now.

From the castle, there are impressive views of the city and famed Casino de Monte Carlo. If you go, be sure to bring your passport or entry will be denied. Be ready to spend a pretty penny; I promptly lost my betting in one fast round of blackjack.

Portofino, Italy You may utter the words “I could live here” while visiting Portofino, as I did. This is a paradise many visit but few can stay. Wealthy moguls from Milan, Turin and Genoa own many of the homes; they aren’t often rented.

Vehicles and new constructi­on have been banned from the waterfront, which allows tourists to grasp a true fishing village feel. Salmon-coloured homes, yellow- and green-stripped buildings and charming cafes line the harbour. There’s a whimsical outdoor art gallery too, that features contempora­ry Italian artists. It’s the type of place I imagine Lewis Carroll would dream up Alice.

And if that’s not enough to woo you, go for the cuisine. Head to the renowned Belmond Hotel Splendido for lunch and an olive oil tasting. Portofino is known for pesto. At a tasting at Castello Brown (yes, there’s even a hillside castle), I learn why. Attention to detail is everything here. Simplicity and quality reign.

Basil is grown in such a location where minerals from the earth and the warm seaside air nourish the plants. A precise amount of cheese, olive oil, pine nuts, garlic, salt and pepper must be added at precise moments. No deviation! This is how it’s been done for hundreds of years — and for good reason.

Portoferra­io (Elba), Italy Walking through the streets of Portoferra­io, located on the island of Elba, is like taking a trek through time. We arrive on Saturday, and immediatel­y notice a sweet, soapy aroma. We soon find out why. Looking down the historic alleyways, where locals live, it’s clearly laundry day. Wafting sheets, socks and bloomers as far as far as the eye can see. This only adds to the town’s charm.

As we make our way up to visit one of two homes where Napoleon lived — he was exiled here in1814 — church bells from one end of town to the next begin to sing. It’s quite the climb to the top of town, but well worth it.

The residence is beautiful, but the view of the rugged coastline below takes the cake. One man sunbathes on his seemingly private white sand beach. Sailboats glide through crystal clear waters. Kayakers make their way onto shore. As we make our way back down, locals sip espresso while others haggle with fisherman for the day’s catch. Before boarding the ship, we find a little café and order a Margherita pizza as sheets dance in the wind.

Rome (Civitavecc­hia), Italy Ci-vi, what? A near unpronounc­eable word, Chi-vi-ta-veh-kia is the port town into Rome. Sure, you can easily grab a flight back to your hometown, but when St. Peter’s Basilica, Vatican City, the Colosseum, the Roman Forum and the Pantheon are a mere 80 kilometres away, you may want to hang your hat for a day.

Be warned, Rome during the day is flooded with tourists just like you and me. I discovered the single best thing to do in this iconic city is throw away your guidebook and wander the side streets.

This is a walking city. If mobility is an issue, organize a car from the friendly cruise staff and ask to do the same. You’ll find the oh-so-famous monuments as they’re close in proximity but you’ll also find much more.

The pleasant fruit stands, the boutique shops, the little cafés, the old churches, the Nonnas sweeping their front steps.

When it’s time for a nibble, simply choose a restaurant with a menu written only in Italian and you’re golden. Kristen Kent

 ?? KRISTEN KENT PHOTOS FOR THE TORONTO STAR ?? In Portofino, left, vehicles and new constructi­on have been banned from the waterfront. When it’s time for a nibble in Rome, right, choose a restaurant with a menu written only in Italian.
KRISTEN KENT PHOTOS FOR THE TORONTO STAR In Portofino, left, vehicles and new constructi­on have been banned from the waterfront. When it’s time for a nibble in Rome, right, choose a restaurant with a menu written only in Italian.
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 ??  ?? Being in Monaco, known for its glitz and glamour, feels as if you’ve magically leaped into a James Bond film.
Being in Monaco, known for its glitz and glamour, feels as if you’ve magically leaped into a James Bond film.

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