Toronto Star

FRESH BITES

The gooseberry has a tart appeal that makes it perfect for chutney, jam, cobbler . . . and even soup,

- CYNTHIA DAVID SPECIAL TO THE STAR

Little green gooseberry balloons looked so pretty last week at the East York farmers market, I couldn’t resist buying a quart.

Fortunatel­y, I knew better than to pop them in my mouth, since the translucen­t berries can be as mouthpucke­ring as rhubarb when green and hard.

“They ripen if you let them sit on the counter,” advises Dianne Rottier, co-owner of Allberry Farms in Jordan Station, one of Ontario’s larger commercial growers.

“When they turn soft they’re amazing,” says Rottier, who grows green and red varieties, “though the skin is always a bit tart.”

Rottier says Russian customers swoon over creamy gooseberry soup.

Paul Brooks, co-owner of Brooks Farms in Mount Albert, Ont., says more Toronto chefs are making gooseberry chutney, traditiona­lly used to cut through the fat in rich meats such as goose, or oily fish such as salmon.

Gooseberri­es are still beloved in England; in North America, settlers transforme­d the tart berries into wine, vinegar, preserves and pies. With our keen interest in local food, especially among chefs, they’re tempting a new generation.

If you’d like to try them, or if gooseberry jam is a summer tradition in your family, local growers have you covered.

Though Allberry Farms finished harvesting early due to rain, Brooks reports a bumper crop of ripe pink gooseberri­es, and Andrews Scenic Acres in the Halton Hills expects to start picking in mid to late July.

If you find gooseberri­es expensive, consider how difficult they are to harvest.

“The bushes are very prickly and the thorns are incredible,” says Brooks, who grows all sorts of pickyour-own fruit and vegetables.

“We go out with a welding glove on one hand to move the bush aside, then` pick around that spot to get every berry.” Name game: The name gooseberry may be connected to the French word groseille, also used for currants, or the fact that the berries were used as a sauce for roast goose. In French, they’re groseilles à maquereaux, as in mackerel, another classic pairing.

Nutri boost: Gooseberri­es are a good source of vitamin A and potassium, and a very good source of fibre and vitamin C. They’re also rich in antioxidan­ts and help regulate blood sugar levels.

Buy and store:

Ontario gooseberri­es are in season in July and August. Look for them in supermarke­ts and farmers markets or pick your own on the farm.

Gooseberri­es keep for several weeks in the refrigerat­or and freeze well for months. Prep:

Let hard green berries ripen on the counter for a few days, or a week or so in the fridge until they start to change colour.

Before using, remove the tail and blossom end with a knife, scissors or your fingers.

Serve:

Cook gooseberri­es in sweet dishes from pies and tarts to muffins and crisps.

Serve them tart in a relish or chutney with grilled salmon, sardines, mackerel, poultry or roast pork.

Gooseberry Ice: For a refreshing summer ice, cookbook author Jennifer McLagan simmers just over 1 pound (500 g) of gooseberri­es in 1 cup (250 mL) water until very soft. Strain through a fine sieve, then stir in 1/2 cup (125 mL) granulated sugar, stirring until dissolved. Chill, then churn in an ice-cream maker.

Gooseberry Fool: Cook gooseberri­es with sugar to taste to make a thick sauce, then pass through a sieve or food mill. Stir cooled purée into whipped cream or Greek yogurt.

Poach: Bring 1 cup (250 mL) water and 1/2 cup (125 mL) granulated sug- ar to a boil, stirring until dissolved, then add1pint of ripe pink gooseberri­es. Cook until barely tender, about 4 minutes. Cool, then chill. Serve with smoked meats or serve over ice cream with a little of the syrup.

Cookie Dough Gooseberry Cobbler

Star Tested This scrumptiou­s dessert, adapted from an Foodland Ontario recipe, pairs tart gooseberri­es with a sweet, crisp, cookie-like topping. Serve warm with vanilla ice cream.

Tip: Recipe can be cut in half using a smaller pan and 2 tbsp (30 mL) beaten egg.

2 cups (500 mL) granulated sugar 1/4 cup (60 mL) corn starch 5 cups (1.25 L) gooseberri­es, halved 1 cup (250 mL) butter, softened 1 large egg 1/2 tsp (2 mL) vanilla 1 cup (250 mL) all-purpose flour 1/2 tsp (2 mL) baking powder Pinch salt 1/2 cup (125 mL) finely chopped pecans or walnuts

In 13-inch by 9-inch (33-cm by 23cm) cake pan, combine 1 cup (250 mL) sugar and cornstarch. Stir in gooseberri­es and set aside.

In large mixing bowl using electric mixer on high, beat together butter and remaining 1 cup (250 mL) sugar until light and fluffy. Beat in egg and vanilla.

In small bowl, combine flour, bak- ing powder and salt. Gradually blend into butter mixture on low. Stir in nuts.

Drop small spoonfuls of dough over gooseberry mixture.

Bake in preheated 375 F (190 C) oven 35 to 40 minutes or until top is golden brown and filling is bubbly. Cool slightly.

Makes 8 servings.

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 ?? FOODLAND ONTARIO ?? Gooseberri­es are in season from July through August. Careful, though; they can be as tart as rhubarb when green.
FOODLAND ONTARIO Gooseberri­es are in season from July through August. Careful, though; they can be as tart as rhubarb when green.
 ?? CYNTHIA DAVID ?? Cookie Dough Gooseberry Cobbler pairs well with vanilla ice cream.
CYNTHIA DAVID Cookie Dough Gooseberry Cobbler pairs well with vanilla ice cream.

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